Saturday, 19 December 2009

Back in the game...

...the training game, at least. Although last weekend I felt back in the trad game (the game that actually counts) too, and was pretty natural and comfortable despite being rustier than a very rusty thing. Anyway since last weekend I have been both struck down with a brief intense bout of Deer Flu, and been rather busy with stuff. Both of those have now cleared up (thanks in part to a daily diet of green tea, dinner with chilli and garlic, and whisky before bed), and I was even able to get out for a run on Thursday - that went okay, by my extraordinarily low standards, again 13/18 minutes in 2/1 running/walking intervals (and yes that is plenty fucking hard enough when your leg veins are fucked).

Last night I was back at Ratho, -20billion'C in there but it didn't seem to affect things too much. I do like in there, a lot. Even though I've failed to flash a lot of routes already, it doesn't matter so much as they're so bloody long you can forget them in a few weeks and effectively retro-flash (or is it amnesia-point??) them, which of course is better training than knowing the moves by heart. I like the grey coloured walls, the wall angles, the subtle rests that merely get you more pumped, and of course the sheer scale. Pity local authority's demands means they fucked up wasting £££ on fancy curved walls and massive atriums instead of the bleeding obvious expenditure of INSULATING THE SODDING ROOF *rolls eyes*.

Last night was good training for a few reasons: Firstly I flashed a couple of F6cs which is meaningless numerical gibberish as all grades are except it indicates relative progress compared to previously. Secondly I felt more comfortable and relaxed pushing myself on lead. And thirdly the reasons for both of the above was I did some good falling practise. I've been reading Arno's new book "Espresso Lessons" (essentially a practical summary of The Rock Warrior's Way without all the hippy / lifestyle / attitude shizzle, personally I miss all of that as I liked it tackling the deeper issues) and trying to implement not just falling practise but good falling practise, i.e. feeling more controlled and comfortable falling. Taking a few 5m falls whilst looking down and calmly letting go rather than shutting my eyes and flinging myself off in despair is in accordance with his principles and likely a step in the right direction. I can feel myself being more comfortable on lead AND more comfortable falling, now that IS good training :).

No comments: