Thursday 20 January 2011

Malteser 8.



Today we climbed slabs AND white pocketed walls. OMG the sheer insolence of it all. Two contrasting rocktypes in one brief winter day (well, afternoon - see below)?? Truly a cutting edge plan.

The day started as the previous day had, as we were guided on our tranquil journey towards awakeness by the soothing encouragement of A FUCKING CAR ALARM RIGHT OUTSIDE THE SODDING HOSTEL. Nevertheless a prompt start was underway, which became rapidly less prompt when we came out to a flat tyre. "No problem", I thought, "I'm a big strong MAN and will simply change this tyre for the spare and drive to a garage to fix the main tyre". Unfortunately this plan depended on the spare tyre not being flat too....2 minutes later we were sat by the side of the road awaiting Europcar tyre rescue... Eventually we got to the SLAB at Ix Xaqqa (I think I got this one right), where the sheets of smooth rock contrasted nicely with the rabbit-carcass-filled gully the route started from. A few routes were rattled off including the pointlessly retrobolted, overgraded, but jolly pleasant Motorpsycho. I sneered at the bolts, fiddled in some RPs, and it was still soft touch.

Spurning the bolts in true artificial risk elitist snobbery style ;)

Having ticked all worth ticking we rounded the evening off with a couple of funky white pocketed trad routes at some crag with lots of GHs, Is, and possibly Xs in the name. 4 good routes and good variety.



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