Sunday, 28 March 2010
Fuck off finger injury.
This odd finger thing I have is becoming persistently annoying. Right hand ring finger (mmmm, ring finger......), tweaked it on Monkey Spanking a while ago, and I'm not sure how. It's a bit of an odd one: sore-ish when crimping, but sore-er when pressed or twisted or crammed into a pocket. Sore around the sides as well as in the middle. Responds well to arnica, massage, and sometimes to "clicking" it. It could be that I've bruised something as well as / instead of tearing it??
It's possibly the least problematic injury I've had compared to a middle finger A2 tear, golfer's elbow, shoulder impingment, broken foot etc etc, all of which properly stopped me climbing and required a slow return. However it's still of some concern not least because I am syked, doing pretty well, and keen to train as well as climb. It seems pretty managable for Easy Trad (tm) when it's scarcely affected, and even some bouldering or sport is okay. Harder stuff and indoor training seems a problem, partly because of the "pressure" issue and partly because it's hard to predict what will worsen it.
So I should be looking at ways of less damaging ways of training of which I suppose there are many: falling practise, laps for stamina, focusing on technique / steadiness, flashing easier problems, swimming, running, hillwalking etc. Not as much fun as just being able to go for it, but some of those are actually more beneficial to me anyway!!