Sunday, 2 March 2014

Wanky Weeks 1 - 4.

No updates because nothing to update about. But I thought I'd just post something so that the 3 friends who read this have some idea what is going on...

And what is going on is that my wrist seems to be healing okay....really really fucking slowly.

I rested it completely for one week, then tried some gentle wrist curls as the physio suggested. I used 7 kg instead of my default 12kg which I regularly use for pain-free anti-golfer's-elbow eccentric wrist curls. I did a few sets of those and it bloody hurt.

So I rested it completely for another week. It still a bit hurt to do wok-shaking during stir-frying, brushing cups during washing up, even turning keys in locks.

So I rested it completely for another week, then went for a gentle session at the wall. Well, sort of gentle session. I met a friend there and got encouraged onto some slightly harder problems than I should be on....maybe even V2 or V3, bletch. I managed to drop off most problems that felt at all tweaky, but even some easier ones on side-pull pockets and jugs felt bad....anything that started my wrist moving or rotating on holds. Small holds, tiny crimps, and straight pulling felt okay. To that end, I had a hunch and went on the Beastmaker for a bit....I could hang the 30' slopers and smallest crimps very comfortably - i.e. NO pain at all. I couldn't do the slightest pull-up on the slopers as my wrist started moving, but could do pull-ups including an equal PB of 4 on the smallest crimps. Hmmm. Maybe this was not the best plan? It was a bit tender for a couple of days after and is slightly better now but still feels stiff and prone to random tweaking. I can do the washing up mostly pain-free, woooot fuck my life.

So I've rested it completely for yet another week. I am now really fucking bored of resting it- and really fucking depressed with trying to motivate myself to go running (fucking awful and depressing experience....just reminds me I'm crippled), swimming (boring and wet although I did do a mile for the first time the other week), and going to the gym (which I haven't done as I just feel weak and unconfident with an injured wrist). I've managed to do just about enough exercise to survive but not nearly enough to feel fit or healthy. So I need to kick myself up the arse.....or in an ideal world have friends and companions around to kick me and do it with me (pipe dreams!), and get more focused on general training. Hopefully some more strictly light / non-tweaky wall sessions soon can give me the momentum to do so....

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