Friday, 24 January 2014

Day 2: Da fuck?

....kinda went like this:

F6a - succeeded - F6a-ish - 5c start then padding
F6b - succeeded - F6b-ish - 6a start then padding.
F6c - fell off thin start - F6c bloc - not inspiring
F6a+ - succeeded - F6b/+ - scary friction
F6b+ - succeeded - F6c+, 10m of sustained 6a/5c, mentally draining
F6c+ - succeeded - F6c+ - hard but fair
F6c+ - succeeded - F6c+ - thinly crimpy but fair
F7a - fell off hard crux - F7a - similar but stretchier crux

So I did the sort of thing I have been aspiring to do. It helped a bit that conditions were amazing later on - proper grit friction style - the F6b+ was mind-warpingly hard and "warmed me up" (i.e. I had to sit down and shake a bit afterwards), and both F6c+s were really very good, the first one being perfectly balanced immaculate slab desperation. The main conclusion I can draw from this and previous experiences, so far, is that the Pedriza grade reality goes something like:

F6a = F6b
F6a+ = F6b+
F6b =F6c
F6b+ = F6c
F6c = F6c
F6c+ = F6c+
F7a = F7a??

Below F6c is such bollox that I might as well not try "easier" routes apart from token warm-ups as they are just as hard as the harder routes?? Too tired to draw any more conclusions for now....dunno what will happen tomorrow but I will try to keep an open beginner's mind.

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