Wednesday, 16 January 2013

2013 goals....What now?

2013 goals:

In rough chronological order:

1. Climb some inspiring boulder problems over winter at: Brin, Farr, Laggan, Clash/Cammach, Clova, Ogle, Nanairn, Arran, etc.

It's winter, it's cold, I'm syked. Nuff said. There's some amazing mid-grade lines in Scotland, especially away from Dumby / Porty, and I want to do them :). It's just a matter of keeping fit and keeping an eye on the weather.

2. Go skiing this winter (ideally Alpe D'Huez or Val D'Is).

3rd year in a row without a ski trip?? I bloody well hope not. I really miss it. Hopefully a friend or acquaintance will be up for it, otherwise I might just have to syke up to go on my own.

3. Go to Berdorf in spring - autumn.

Sandstone awesomeness. Just need a dry forecast for Luxembourg and a syked partner - contact me if you fancy it. Oh, and for the website to actually reply to my email about purchasing the guide.

4. Go to Pfalz in spring - autumn.

More sandstone, even more awesome. Sport and trad too! Again just need a dry forecast for South West Germany and a syked partner - I'd like to go for a long week for this one....again contact me.

5. Go to Lewis for a week.

3rd year in a row without getting over there?? I bloody well hope not. Well this year I won't be trying to get to Skye or Sheigra or Caithness or Reiff as much, so when the usual weather window appears, I want to get over there ASAP. Again, if anyone is up for a week there at shortish notice, get in touch!!

6. Climb some inspiring harder trad at: Glen Nevis, Creag Dubh, Wester Ross.

Exactly what it says. The relative accessibility and popularity of these areas should mean it's okay getting on the routes in the odd 2 day weather windows, I just need to be prepared mentally and physically - fitness training, stamina training, trad mileage, and FALLING PRACTICE.

7. Keep up with a general high level of activity - climbing, training, gym, etc, AND FALLING PRACTICE.

As before. I did okay with this last year. With my legs it is utterly fucking essential I keep at it. Climbing-wise it's the usual training and I really want to keep up and improve the falling practice.

8. Be dilligent and look after and hopefully reduce my injuries.

A flying visit to Siurana and two weeks climbing in Morocco has done my elbow and finger a lot of good, with much less pain than a couple of months ago. So obviously these are not just frivolous climbing trips but essential theraputic treatments. My shoulders are a bit achey but that's mostly funny sleep. If I keep dilligent with taping, theraputic treatments, warming up, massage, etc, I should be okay for the trad/travelling season.

9.  Possibly go to Sweden and/or Hatun Machay in summer.

Not sure about fitting either of these in: Sweden is less of a priority than the Sandstone but it would be nice to revisit. Hatun Machay is super-uber-syked-inspiring but complicated and expensive and god knows if I could get someone to go out there climbing. So they are just possibilities.

10. Keep meeting up with climbing partners and fostering positive partnerships.

Always a slow process in the trad-climber-droughtland that is Scotland, but I've got a few good partners to climb with. Except some of them insist on having babies. So I'll still have to keep finding more partners and hopefully keep having good trips with them.


11. Go raving more.

2009: Dave Clarke & Jeff Mills @ The Arches.
2010: Bolt Thrower @ Leeds
2011: Industrial Strength 20th Anniversary @ The Arches
2012: Aphex Twin / Current Value / Producer & Hellfish / Starscream / Wisp etc @ Bangface

Maybe I'll try to get to more than one rave/club this year!! As long as I keep up with the style and quality of the music above, it will be cool :).

What now?

Since it's still winter I don't have to worry too much about route performance yet. Instead I can focus more on bouldering, fun, general activity, and getting plans together for the routes season....

  • Get out bouldering whenever it's dry.
  • Put feelers out to see if anyone is interested in skiing / Berdorf / Pfalz.
  • Get the 7aMax sport climbing guide in preparation for a transition into spring trad.
  • Get back into the habit of going to the gym.
  • Train indoor climbing but mostly for fun, being careful with injuries.

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