Tuesday, 24 April 2012
It is raining and my mind is wandering. I can't train in the rain hardcore because my elbow is definitely fucked. Exactly the same as 2008 except this time it's my right elbow. I guess that means my left elbow has healed up pretty well since 2008, as this time I'm sure the injury is just general over-training (TCA + beastmaker campussing + cold days out on nasty reachy shite like Ley quarry), rather than a specific move on a specific arm. Which shows some promise if I can stick to the long term theraputic regime of regular gentle climbing, avoiding aggravation, massage, ice/heat, and eccentric wrist curls. Ideally the regular gentle climbing would be lots of trad days out....did I mention it was raining??
So wandering on to some thoughts...
1. Went to Ratho last weekend. Hadn't been for a month. Stamina sucked but not too bad. Falling practise felt surprisingly easy despite not having done any in the meantime. This is good. Hopefully I can train my mind hardcore (.....ish!!).
2. I really wish I'd been aware of the retrospectively bloody obvious idea that I can do single day trips to Glen Nevis and Creag Dubh in the last two years. I went up a few weeks ago, the plan was to solo some easy-but-bold routes, I got scared and did fuck all apart from the ace V4/5 wall on the boulders. That was scarey enough. The point being I felt like I had loads of time at the crags despite being sandwiched in between long journeys....and could have easily done plenty of trad. So....why the fuck not?? I've always had this idea that I've got to get a couple of days in to justify the drive, but fuck it, this is Scotland, you just have to drive as the weather and crags demand it. So that's the plan this summer. Assuming there will never be 3 consecutive dry days in Fort William (as per last summer), I'll do it in 3 single day trips!! The price to pay....fuck loads of petrol money :S. But what other luxuries should I spend money on?? Drum and bass CDs....err....hmm.
3. I need to remember the importance of sea-cliff conditions and in particular sea-grease. Not sure why this has occured to me. Oh yeah, I've been thinking about future challenges on both the invariably pokey Aberdeen sea-cliffs, and other greater sea-cliff venues in general. Lots of harder routes inspire me and the rock and vibes are often as good as the approaches are gentle. But the prescence of ace rock can't guarantee the abscence of a filmy coating of sea-skank... And I need to remember that and adapt my challenges to suit. And take loads of chalk.
4. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=32205 This report from Southern Man is quite inspiring, on the subject of having an epicly screwed up driving-climbing ratio but it still being worth it to follow inspirations. Not that I'd do some rambly mountaineering choss like Direct Nose Route, but as per the Nevis/Dubh daytrip idea, I think I need to start putting more effort in to going further afield for shorter times....it might not be as neat nor as economical as getting everything done in a harmonious long weekend, but eventually it will add up and get more inspiring routes and venues ticked off. Which = awesomeness.
Meh. Still raining. Laterz.