Sunday, 10 May 2009
When wet: go indoors to lead walls, lead pumpy routes, push self, do falling practise. In general train for inspiring rock climbing.
When dry: go to local quarried / limestone, onsight some routes, maybe work others, push self. In general train for inspiring rock climbing.
So far, so fun. I had a good wall session the other week - in fact my best indoor leading session since 2007 (pre-injury)! I climbed a few challenging routes, had to pull properly hard (sore fingertips and fingers - on lead!), and got rather pumped a couple of times. This is good. Okay, I got scared and then carried away and didn't do falling practise, but aside from that it was cool. Similarly I had a nice evening down in a Matlock quarry (rapidly becoming my prefered training ground) where I pulled reasonably hard on lead. Sluggish warming up but got into it and into the relaxed bolted vibe. This is all good as it's keeping me fit and keeping me climbing well, or at least climbing okay, so when I can get away to proper places (currently Mid-Wales I'm especially keen for), I should be ready. Of course things - i.e. my deranged and fragile psychology - can still go up and and down, but physical preparation is always helpful.