Board Of It All.

This is a guide to my ~rehab series of boulder problems on the Depot Trafford 30' board. I set these mostly in 2022 when I was recovering from a torn LCL and wasn't able to drop off from high up. The problems go from sit starts to finishing holds at 2/3rds height, and usually pack in some good moves - I've usually focused on a specific hold / move style, but have often gone for smaller moves on smaller holds, rather than Moonboard style neanderthal hooligan lurching. 

They're all listed under the ~rehab name, or under fiend666 as the setter. All feet are included, and for almost all problems you need to do the mirror too (apart from a few where due to asymmetrical holds on the symmetrical board, the mirror is harder!). I've written some details below. Problems are roughly in ascending order of difficulty, and grades given are realistic in comparison to other indoor or outdoor bouldering in that style Although I recorded them as default 6A, that was solely as I needed to add some grade - the real grades here are NOT the usual bullshit grades given by the usual board morons, but are still very approximate.

~rehab1

Basic moves on pale wood holds. It's supposed to be the warm-up but is a fairly terrible warm-up as it's still quite cranky / locky. Go do some proper warming up first!

~rehab3

Fiddly-ish stuff on dark wood edges. There's a tricky gaston move to finish but before that it's not too cranky.

~rehab5

A total contrast. Big open moves on big open holds, good for a warm-up but also warm down when the fingers are sore. It's a crouch start as the upper starting hold is a bit hard to hold from a full sit. 

~rehab7

A favourite mid-warm-up of mine - very pure crimping / edging! A good little test of contact strength.

~rehab17

I can't remember the difficulty that well but I think it's okay! Nice snatches into underclings, then an easing finish.

~rehab10

A bit of an odd one as all the difficulty is snatching into a second undercling at the start, then it's easier. If one has the knack for the first move it's steady-ish.

~rehab14

A fairly no-nonsense problem - fight the hard-to-hold pinches with one hand, slap into jugs with the other hand, then do the same but opposite with the mirror!

~rehab12

A neat and knacky problem if it's the right level for you and you don't skip the moves. There's a cool rollover in the middle that if you get it right flows nicely into improving holds. I always struggle to get the optimum feet for this one.

~rehab4

Good value for a few moves - it's all about matching the middle hold, with some tension. Unfortunately the mirror of this hold is less incut and it makes the mirror so much harder I still haven't managed it yet!

~rehab6

Super basic and satisfying cranking, you don't get problems this good with a grade this honest on the moonboard! Flicking to the "overshadowed" crimp is quite tricky for accuracy.

~rehab9

A real favourite of mine - the first problem I could properly try hard on and fall off safely whilst rehabbing my torn LCL. It revolves around matching the double rat crimps in the middle and for me doing a lot of foot shuffling to continue. Warm your finger pulp up first!

~rehab2

The second problem I set but definitely not the second easiest! This very knacky, via an open sidepull pinch that feels fine....until you try to roll onto the hold above it. I still don't know how it works when it actually does.

~rehab11

Another knacky one - the start is a bit fiddly and the strong can skip some moves, but it's all about the finish, shuffling along the really hard to hold pinches. Crab claws at the ready!

~rehab13

Action packed for a few moves. A tricky roll into a pinch leads to some really fierce edgy cranking. Make sure you have some finger pulp left. Unfortunately the mirror of the pinch is slightly less incut so the mirror problem is harder, I think I've only done it once.

~rehab8

Another favourite, that took me some serious effort to finally get through it's relentless fingery gastons. Please note the light on the 3rd hold isn't working. Also the mirror of the penultimate hold is at an obviously different angle so the mirror is much harder and I haven't done it.

~rehab16

Project on diagonal dark wood holds. Leave it alone or at least don't tell me if you do it, I don't want to know. I'll update if I do it.

~rehab15

Project on diagonal dark wood holds. Leave it alone or at least don't tell me if you do it, I don't want to know. I'll update if I do it.

Any questions or comments, or you want to meet up for a session, message me on Whatsapp or Facebook.