Pen Llyn Corrections

Pen Llyn Corrections / Suggestions:

I sent a lot of feedback / corrections / suggestions to the guide authors, based on climbing at a similar standard to the routes in question (and not several grades higher), being both familiar with and enthusiastic for Llyn climbing but also not a dedicated master of the terrain, whilst also heeding the views of my partners. A bit of the feedback seemed to get in but a fair amount was ignored leading to various inaccuracies in the guide (particularly for accessible mid-grade routes, whilst Lovatt/Bullock E7 6as on Craig Dorys get full and extensive details, which is of use to at least 2% of climbers). I get the vague impression that like some other CC guides, the guidebook process is fairly "closed shop" where it's only a group of devoted locals who are heeded (same with inaccuracies in the West Penwith guides).  Thus I've re-written the most pertinent feedback here for reference.

pp 99-101 - Carreg Lefain

Possible intro text: "Carreg Lefain is a prominent steep knoll when viewed from the East, but is best approached from the West, where the Mynydd Nefyn carpark at SH320407 has space for several cars, and a 5 minute stroll leads to the crag. The rock is a compact granodiorite with many angular features and sometimes sparse protection. The right side of the crag is quite steep, especially around a mid-height nose, and the routes are harder than they look. Some harder classics take the nose direct, whilst some easier routes skirt around it via various ramps and grooves. All routes taper off into scrambling to finish.

The crag faces due South, gets all the sun and breeze, dries quickly and has a comfy base for lounging around. The panoramic view over the Llyn is exceptional."

Routes:

10. Atasia E1 5c

"A convoluted line with an exposed finish. Climb a short corner that's more awkward than it looks, then trend left up slabby ground to gain the next short corner. Climb this, also awkward, to get established on the main ramp. Follow this back right for a long way until a committing step right gains the top of the nose. Wander upwards to finish."

Given E2 5c **, but definitely not that. Rafe led it and it was fine at E1. Very disjointed so not worth 2 stars. 

11. Good Housekeeping E3 5c *

"Disjointed by ledges but with some fine steep climbing in between. Start just left of the central alcove and climb the first wall to a ledge. Climb the steeper wall above past a crucial small spike to gain the ramp of Atasia. Step right for a couple of metres, the cliimb steeply up the next wall with careful protection to gain the ramp of (Severe). Step left for a couple of metres and climb into a scoop above to gain a grassy ramp and easier route."

Topo line is wrong and shows it swerving much further left, when it actually climbs an obvious direct featured wall.

15. Coprolalia E2 5c

"A good line up the ramp right of the nose, but a rather pokey route. Climb fairly direct to gain a block and niche below the start of the ramp. Blind and bold moves gain the ramp proper, then follow this much more easily until near the nose. Pull into a scoop, and trend left or right to gain easier ground."

Given two stars but really it's only worth one, too imbalanced.

17. Psychopath HVS 5a **

"The easiest route skirting the nose is one of the best, with continuously interesting climbing up a strong feature. Start at the far right of the wall, bridge up the small gully for a few metres, then commit left onto the wall proper to gain a flake system. Follow this until it's possible to move right into the prominent slanting groove. Climb up until stopped by a smoother slab, step left under this and then up and back right (or direct at 5b), to gain a stance and easier ground. Scrambling remains."

Given only one star but really it's worth two, for reasons given.

Submitted topo

Guide topo with Good Housekeeping corrected

pp 117-119 - Trwyn Maen Melyn

The following details along with the topo here were submitted: https://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2019/07/trwyn-maen-melyn.html  . 

The issue with ignored stars is particularly bewildering given the amount of sport routes at the Gyrn Ddu Quarries that get 2/3 stars and are hardly the finest Llyn experiences.

Approach: "From the main track that contours above the St Mary's Well zawn, continue West to a prominent brown rock, the crag lies just below and left of this."

3. Headstrong E2 5b (?)

"Start from the giant block (the white speckles are quartz not bird shit), and follow a line leftwards out to the edge of the wall. An easier lower line might be possible."

Given 2 stars but is clearly the least interesting line on the whole crag.

4. The Incredible Surplus Head E3 5c **

"Start from the giant block, climb steeply up to bisect TBR, continue even more steeply up via two blocks left of the larger "head" and finish leftwards with much pump."

Not given any stars, despite the face it's clearly a wild and spectacular line, described as "an excellent pitch", and was regarded good enough to be one of two routes featured in Ground Up's North Wales Rock

5. The Ideal Hom Experience E2 5b **

"A irresistable line. Ideally start at the base of the corner behind the blocks, or at high tide from the block itself. Climb the steep corner via the featured rightwall to bisect TBR, continue via an undercling to escape rightwards into a bay, the far corner being the obvious exit."

6. Isis In Orbit E3/4 5c **

"Another good, very direct and steep line. Bridge up between the boulder and the right wall of TIHE, then continue up the wall on various fangs and boulders to regain TIHE at it's crack and undercling. Climb direct into a well-positioned niche and pull out directly through the steepness to finish."

Still given E4 6a despite the fact it really isn't. Scarcely harder than ISH, definitely no 6a moves. Comments on the FB group support this.

7. The Bardsey Ripple E2 5b ***

"Brilliant and bizarre, traversing the intrusion to take in the best of the crag. Start in the cleft of QB, bridge up then drop down and swing boldly leftwards to gain a groove. Follow this then escape around the left rib to gain the intrusion, and follow this all the way to the left end of the crag with much exposure, elation, rope-drag etc."

See below.

8. Stoned Immaculate E2 5b 

"Superceded by TIHE and TBR, but enjoyable. Start as for TBR to the groove, the continue direct past a committing bulge to gain the bay of TIHE. A direct finish from this might be good, or escape rightwards"

Given a star, which is probably right.

(The "bouldery start" described in the book would be much harder and more serious (E4 6a and paddable?).)

Both still mistakenly described as "Make a bouldery start left of Queer Bar" which is clearly nonsense to anyone who has looked at this start.

9. Queer Bar E3 5c **

"A great line up the chimney, with entertaining climbing to match - giant cam and dry conditions needed. Pull on as for TBR and squirm upwards then outwards towards daylight and easier terrain. Continue to a wild final bulge and pull over via the biggest hold at the crag. "

Given no stars despite the fact it is an excellent line. The guide uses my intro line and then ignores the description and star rating. These sort of sea cliff clefts are usually highly regarded so why is this one any different?? 

10. The Ungradeable Donkey E3 5c/6a *

"A shorter route, but varied and interesting. Start a few metres up the ramp from QB, at an RP slot and high hold. Crank past the bulge onto the slab of rock that's escaped from Holyhead Mountain. Continue to the break then climb up the interesting crunchy groove to pop out rightwards. "

Given E4 6a and no stars which isn't right. At least the start was corrected.

11. The Eyes Have It E4 6a (*?)

"Climb the obvious diagonal break from right to left, with a very steep finish."

Given no stars which given the quality of the line, I doubt is right.

12. The Bardsey Shuffle E7 6b (**?)

"Wild and aesthetic. Start as for TEHI until the TUD groove, then break out left onto the very steep wall via the giant embedded eyes to finish up the crest."

pp 199 - Cilan Mur Y Fulfran

Approach: "Follow the new approach to Cilan via the top of Dorys. At the main bend in the coast path (post), continue straight on instead of turning right, and pass a prominent rock after 50m. Continue in the same line out towards the coast, and as the very South West tip of Cilan head is reached, bear very slightly right (a faint gully with dark rock on the right is a landmark). The abseil point to Mur Y Fulfran is where the rocky orange shelf at the cliff-top fades out into the hillside at it's Northern end, the tidal shelf is just below this, and it's a good viewpoint for Zawn Two. Good anchors here and the abseil goes down the line of the Grampus slab."

Cantre'r Gwaelod E2 5c * 

Agree with the grade, maybe worth a star for good rock and neat, dually cruxy climbing. Slightly bold but the tricky bits are okay.

Not given a star, which doesn't seem right given things are generally being highly starred on this wall.

Grampus E2 5b

It would be useful for the guide to clarify if this started up the slabby side of the arete (i.e. a couple of m left of the arete), or directly up the steep side closer to Bilidowcar. 

Clarified as the left side I think, but could be more clarified.

Bilidowcar HVS 5a ** 

Agree with the grade, although high in the grade overall including the bold moves right at 2/3 height. Worth two stars, good line and good, interesting, climbing.

Given the stars which is good.

Hop On The Sleigh E2 5c *

Agree with the grade, definitely worth a star, good value with 3 hard and awkward moves into, up, and out of the groove (felt quite like Lake District climbing!)

Given 2 stars which I think is probably right.

It's worth noting that a small block ledge and good anchor above the barnacles on HOTS can easily be gained by abseil and provides good access to HOTS, Mesora E3 5c, and maybe Donkey Derby E2 5c when the swell is prohibitive.

This wasn't added and there's space on the page to do so.

pp 214-249 - Craig Dorys

Votes For Dogs E1/2 5b *

Hard for E1 - E1 5a up to main corner (some delicate moves, the usual Doris rock scenario) into E1 5b up the final corner (stiff steep moves with the slab to clatter into). Definitely worth a star of two for the great line and interesting climbing.

Thankfully this DID get in at E2 5b *

Friendless E1 5c *

Currently 5c for the boulder problem start. Rafe had tried it previously with the pebbles lower and it was 6a then. E1 5b after the start. Great line, definitely worth a star.

Not given a star, despite the fact it's probably a much better line than some of the E7s nearby. I'd trust Rafe's judgement on this and he was easily contactable.

Carf Crack / Faltering Hand.

There is only one line and one route here, with a possible variation finish, so the original should be mentioned first and the later addition mentioned in the text as the variant. I think Rafe would definitely agree with the E1 based on his previous lead (which had his partner describing it as "dreadful" and "don't bring me here ever again" ).

Still described as two HVS routes which isn't right.

Jacuzzi Dive E2 5c *

Agree with the grade, worth a star because, although short, it's good compact rock and elegant wall climbing. 

Not given the star it deserves, and neither were the harder routes opposite which I'm sure were highly regarded on the FAs.

pp 258 - Pared Mawr:

Bendy Wendy E3 5b *

This was an experience.... A lot harder overall than any E2 I've done on the Llyn! In fact I did Communication Breakdown E3 5c at Red Walls two days before, and although that was slightly traumatic as injury has kept me well away from having good trad mileage this year, Bendy Wendy was at least as challenging a lead. I nearly backed off the start after pulling off most of the holds on the sequence I was using, the middle ledge shuffling was unnerving, and getting to the gear in the final groove was pretty serious. Albeit the final groove had great climbing and the whole thing felt worth it's star.

Still in at E2. God help the E2 leader who climbs Bardsey Ripple, Ideal Hom Experience, Rastus, Cantre'r Gwaelod, Jacuzzi Jive, Miasma, Wylo-The-Wisp, Strangers On The Shore, and then gets on this. RIP.

The Bees Knees E1 5a **

I don't think there's the possibility of anything having the normal adjectival-tech grade ratio here, and although this was a reasonable proposition, it's still serious to start with a hard move and then nasty fall potential, and plenty of classic Pared Mawr rock in the groove. I only seconded it, and had great fun on second, both the climbing and trundling several blocks and holds. I definitely think 2 stars for the crag, it's one of the best lines (admittedly there are several, aesthetically), AND at a manageable standard so it could actually get done, and it's actually pretty nice balancy climbing.

Still in at HVS which is nonsense, and no stars which is equal nonsense given the clear reasons given.

pp 274 - 283 Wylfa:

2. Scissors E3 5a ** 

Probably only 5a and the E3 5a grade gives a better estimate (HVS climbing, +1 grade boldness, +1 grade looseness, +1 grade sustained). I think worth two stars for the climbing and setting.

In at E3 5b which doesn't quite capture the quality.

12. Wylfa Corner E1 5b ***

Seconded again, I thought it was hard for the grade the first time (when I had a solid summer of multiple E4 leads under my belt) and I think it's just as hard now. Maybe more so after Rafe removed a few bits of "good rock" from the top. Still a 3 star classic though. Line, continuity, gear, tricky corner climbing, the works.

In at two stars which is fine.

13. Miasma E2 5b *

This was good despite being a bit intimidating. Obviously dangerous but easy to start, then the final traverse, well it wasn't hard but only had good gear at the start of it. I'd say more like E2 5b, the moves weren't hard but the end of the traverse was bold and falling off the spooky rock-over onto the arete would be an injuruous fall back into the corner. Great moves along the traverse though.

Given E2 5c which doesn't quite capture the feel of it.

18. South West Connection E? 5? 

The right side of the crack at the crux overlap has fallen away leaving a fresh rockscar and some highly off-putting mini-fins of rock instead of the wall, so the grade and star will likely change.

Seemingly ignored and still in at E3 5c which it was when I led it PRE-rockfall, and definitely won't be now.

4. Strangers On The Shore E2 5b **

Suggested as 2 stars due to good rock, interesting easier-than-it-looks climbing and a nice situation.

Thankfully this did get in at 2 stars. Albeit with a disappointing arse shot (photo updates in next post)

pp 298 -333 - T'yn Tywn Quarries:

Baywatch E2 5c **

Very good and well balanced - steep bold jug-hauling into a nice upper part into a tricky crux finish - definitely 5c. A good line when you look closely too. It's also more like 5m right of Microcosm. Probably worth 2 stars for the variety and overall experience.

(For context Rafe led SITR after me and found it stiff but managed it fine, but pumped out on the lower part of BW, and then on second - after I re-lead it - he found the top crux hard (in a sort of A0 way)).

In at E3 5b *, which doesn't capture that it's both fairly manageable for a steep bold route, but also fairly crux,  and 3m right of Microcosm which isn't right. 

Singing In The Rain E1/2 5b */**

Also very good with a strong finish. Serious to start with some hollow holds and a terrible landing (see UKC comments), and a stiff exposed move into the groove higher up. It's just 2m right of Baywatch.

In at E1 5b * and no mention of the start.

...

Next time: Submitted photos.