Trwyn Maen Melyn

The rock type is apparently "Gwna Melange" (unless Pantontino made that up in a sleep-deprived guidebook-editing haze) and the crag classic is The Bardsey Ripple. If you think these sound more like exotic Welsh ice-cream flavours, then that's a fair view of what to expect from the crag - imagine ALL the rock types of the Lleyn mixed together and frozen into a concreted wave of the upmost weirdness. But somehow it has the highest ratio of "surprisingly solid" to "looks alarmingly semi-detatched" in the area, quite fortuitous given the angle. The guidebook descriptions needed sorted for a couple of routes and some of the stars are estimates but it really is a lovely spot. Approach etc via Lleyn CC guide or North Wales Rock, check BMC RAD for bird bans but they don't seem to affect this bay.

Headstrong E2 5b *

Start from the giant block (the white speckles are quartz not bird poo), and follow a line leftwards out to the edge of the wall. An easier lower line might be possible.

The Incredible Surplus Head E3 5c **
Start from the giant block, climb steeply up to bisect TBR, continue even more steeply up via the head and finish leftwards with much pump.

The Ideal Hom Experience E2 5b **
A good irresistable line. Ideally start at the base of the corner behind the blocks, or at high tide from the block itself. Climb the steep corner via the featured rightwall to bisect TBR, continue via an undercling to escape rightwards into a bay, the far corner being the obvious exit.

Isis In Orbit E3/4 5c **
Another good, very direct and steep line. Bridge up between the boulder and the right wall of TIHE, then continue up the wall on various fangs and boulders to regain TIHE at it's crack and undercling. Climb direct into a well-positioned niche and pull out directly through the steepness to finish.

The Bardsey Ripple E2 5b ***
Brilliant and bonkers, traversing the intrusion to take in the best of the crag. Start in the cleft of QB, bridge up then drop down and swing swiftly leftwards to gain a groove. Follow this then escape around the left rib to gain the intrusion, and follow this all the way to the left end of the crag with much exposure, elation, rope-drag etc.

Stoned Immaculate E2 5b *
Superceded by TIHE and TBR, but should still be fun. Start as for TBR to the groove, the continue direct to gain the bay of TIHE. A direct finish from this might be good. The "bouldery start" described in the book would be much harder and more serious (E4 6a and paddable?).

Queer Bar E3 5c **
Another great line. Start in the mighty cleft and squirm up it to get some respite above, the continue through the obvious bulge above. Can be very greasy, giant cam useful.

The Ungradeable Donkey E3 5c/6a *
A shorter route, but varied and interesting. Start a few metres up the ramp from QB, at an RP slot and high hold. Crank past the bulge onto the slab of rock that's escaped from Holyhead Mountain. Continue to the break then climb up the interesting crunchy groove to pop out rightwards. An easier start is possible just right, while the "start as for Queer Bar" described in the book is illogical and would be much harder.

The Eyes Have It E4 6a *
Climb the obvious diagonal break from right to left, with a very steep finish.

The Bardsey Shuffle E7 6b **
Wild and aesthetic. Start as for TEHI until the TUD groove, then break out left onto the very steep wall via the giant embedded eyes to finish up the crest.