South Snowdonia Bouldering Videos

The full collection:

A variety of odds, sods, and hidden gems scattered across the area.

TYG 5 - a very nice selection of boulders in a lovely location

Cyt Y Bugail - cool cranking on rough rock in a stunning spot

Cregiau Llyn Gwern - a couple of great, not fully described, lines.

Some neat new 6Cs scattered around the Blaenau area.

A good variety of gritstone near Fridd

Ysgyfarnogod - part of the excellent and extensive low-mid grade circuit in one of the best locations in the UK.

Some new stuff right by the Moelwynion / Cwm Orthin parking area.

The earliest new stuff I did, some up at The Rhinogs, some deep in a forest near Dolgellau.

South Snowdonia Bouldering Corrections

South Snowdonia Bouldering Corrections

I was fairly well involved with checking the SSB guidebook, as well as a small amount of developing. I tried to visit as many areas as I could and give feedback on all of them, whether I climbed successfully or not. There was also a Whatsapp group of local activists, where I posted most feedback for discussion, but there was almost no discussion nor shared feedback there from other people. Given this was a newly developed area with a lot of unrepeated problems, I thought it was very important to get as much clarity and accuracy as possible. However, despite some requests, a fair amount of my feedback didn't get included, even updates I thought I made a strong case for. Hopefully this list below is useful:

Page 24 - Clogwyn Yr Adar

Suggested that "can be boggy" should be added to the crag description.

Still applies and would be useful to know in advance.

Page 39 - Manod

27. Inkerman 7A 

Definitely only 7A, as per North Wales Bouldering and my own experience, it's just highball. This is the original and classic line of the boulder and should be the default topo line, with 27a. Balaclava 7B as the variant.

Generally more feedback has been factored in to NWB, so this is a more confirmed grade. 

Page 61 - Tanygrisiau - Below The Dam Road

41. Tempest 6C+ 

Definitely soft 6C+ (maybe hard 6C) as per NWB and my own experience, and NOT 7A. Also this problem is getting hammered and trashed due to people thinking it's a soft 7A tick, so should be the correct grade to stop too much honeypotting.

Generally more feedback has been factored in to NWB, so this is a more confirmed grade. Also the detrimental effect of honeypotting due to mis-guided grade-bagging is surely incongruous with the exploratory South Snowdonia Bouldering??

Page 74  - Tanygrisiau - Cluster 5

Suggested intro: "A great little circuit in a fine position above everything - more secluded than the lower road boulders, with plenty of picnic and lounging potential. The boulders dry instantly and have some good Font 6s"

A very nice circuit that deserves some selling - see video for proof!

Rewritten approach for clarity: "Follow the dam road until just past the second bend, then at a metal grille by the road, follow a path right up the steep grass hillside. Or slightly easier, continue up the dam road until a large roadside boulder, head steeply up the open gully, then contour round right beneath the slabby bluff. 30 mins either way. Continuing all the way on the dam road before contouring back at the slate wall is gentler, but a lot longer."

Since there's a lot of rock up there it would be useful to guide people quite clearly. 

(47. TNT 6C)

This is basically a complete eliminate ignoring an obvious crimp in the middle of the face. A SDS goes naturally into this and should be described as:

47. TNT Static SDS 6C

"SDS via a cluster of pinchy pockets to get some sloping jugs, then a high crimp and long move to the top. Can be dynoed from a stand start on the mid-height jugs as TNT 6C."

Still applies. By default problems are supposed to be the easiest way up the wall. 

48. Hannibal Hayes 7A and 49. Kid Curry 7A

These are just bonus links between the natural lines of TNT and BR, and should be mentioned as such. Grades seemed right.

The topo lines confirm this.

50. Bank Robber 6B+

Good proper climbing with a spicy top move without a spotter. Felt quite stiff and could be 6B+.

52. Revolver 6C+

Great, felt just about right at the grade. Cool power climbing. The start was surprisingly easy give the small pockets, so I suspect High Noon 6B is right at the grade. A better description for Revolver would be: 

"Sds on the left using two crimp pockets, slap up to a flat jug then power right using a crimp and the ramp to gain the arete and finish up this."

This was suggested to go down to 6C, and I agreed with this as since I flashed it must be easy for 6C+, but it wasn't changed.

56. Your Queen Is A Reptile 6B

Definitely 6B, it's harder than Rare Whiskey, it took me a few goes which is rare for a 6B/+ compression prow let alone a 6A+. Excellent, one of the best easier problems I've done in South Snowdonia. Great line and classic fridge-hugging. 

Worth getting this right for one of the best problems up here.

Page 95 - Craig Clipiau

I suggested that all the following really should be added as they're very accessible and some good problems:

Craig Y Clipiau Approach Walls.

SH 68235 45642

"From the Cwm Orthin carpark follow the main Cwm Orthin track past the waterfall and swimming pool until it levels out. Turn back sharp right on a flat track through the slate (the approach to Craig Y Clipiau) and after 70m there's a wall on the left (5 mins walk):"

1. Sais Highway 6B+ 

The obvious excellent arete next to the path, at the right end of the wall. Start on a good jug and climb direct (not rightwards) via underclings, pinches, and a committing finish.

(Matthew Thompson 2022)

This was thankfully included.

70m further right is a rocky bay set back on the left:

2. Sow's Ear 6B

The small sharp prow in the bay is poky for it's size. Crouch start on a good jug and climb to match the sloping jug in the corner, step off. Spotter useful.

(Julie Mair 2022)

20m right is a pair of clean walls with slanting features:

3. Slim Pickings 6A

The slim crack in the lower wall. Nice layaway moves lead to a jug at the crest, reverse a move and drop off.

(Matthew Thompson 2022)

4. Bi-doight Bypass 6B+ 

A neat link across the upper slanting wall. Pull up the crack on the left then swerve right via the duo pocket and span to the sharp finishing jug.

(Matthew Thompson 2022)

5. project - 7A? 

The lower / direct version of BDBP will be great. SDS off crimps, gain the distant sloping rail and follow it rightwards on improving crimps to the sharp jug. Cold conditions and steel fingers useful.

Page 108 - Tanygrisiau - Dolrhedyn Lower Levels

Approach description is not accurate as there are a lot of rocks visible but Basking Shark is hidden from view. Best described as:

"After the second gate, follow the raised quarry track rightwards then turn left just before the cutting, the wall is just past the third gate beneath the telegraph wires."

Still would be useful to have this.

32. Whaling Ban 6C

New beta drops this two grades from 7A, as follows (see video): "Sds hands matched by the good undercut flake, fire up left for the clean crimp in the face then direct up more crimps to finish."

As per TNT. The FA just bypassed some holds which is classic "big (small) numbers for bad beta".

37. - 40. 

All look good but the rock isn't nice, quite flakey and crunchy. 40. Canines 6C (7A) is entirely morpho and a grade or two harder if you can't reach from the undercling to the crimp flake with your feet on the lower big ledge.

It was acknowledged that this was very reachy, so a compromise 6C+ grade could have been used.

Pp 122 - Cwm Teigl / Carreg Y Fran

Approach times for the main boulders (5 mins), the cracked wall (10 mins) and Area 3 (20 mins?) would be useful.

7. The Incradable Wall 6A

Better described as:

"Sds at a vague pocketed break and hoof it up to good holds and finish up the arete."

8. He Who Should Not Be Named 6B

...and hard for 6B!! Better described as:

"SDS on the right on a good finger ledge, and climb direct to a wee groove via a big reach or tiny pockets."

Note that a 7C+ eliminate was squeezed into the page here with some rejigging, despite other changes not getting in (e.g. Ysgyfarnogod).

Page 130 - Cwm Teigl / Cyt  Y Bugail

The walk-in times should be approximately:

Roof Of The World - 20 mins (5 mins to the old telegraph poles, 5 more minutes along the track, and 10 mins slog up the hillside)

Join The Party - 25 mins (15-20 mins on track, 5-10 mins up hillside)

Ravensland - 30 mins (20 mins on track, 10 mins off-piste (I think))

Llyn Bowydd - 25-30 mins (25 mins to start of boulders, but extra 5 mins to get into High Wall etc). Should mention it's a very easy walk for the length!

Page 130 -  Llyn Bowydd: 

Absolutely beautiful spot, it would be worth highlighting just how wild and stunning the backdrop for Llyn Bowydd is.  Also good for families, picnics, and generally playing around. The rock is very specifically rough, and it would be important to put in a line like "The rock is amazingly rough and featured, bring your toughest skin". 

It does seem like the rock texture might make long lip traverses here a bit gruelling and maybe some of those could be just mentioned in passing??

13. Half An Elephant 7A 

I couldn't even think about Mari's sandbag crimp/sloper fest direct finish but managed a cool method onto the left arete, which is 6C and equally good. New description:

"Crouch under the centre of the righthand block with RH good crimp then gain the pocket up and left, either continue to the apex via poor holds, or spiral onto the left arete and then up to the apex at 6C"

This still seems the most logical way. See video.

Page 140 - High Wall:

20. A to Z 6C+

Too hard / thin / conditions-dependent for 6C - as per my ascent in front of guidebook team! Thin and reachy and good.

This was ungraded by the first ascentionist, and the 6C was speculated by the guidebook team. I did a very rare repeat, in great conditions, in front of the team and confirmed it at 6C+, but this didn't get changed.

Page 143 - Bowydd Sharksfin:

Easy enough to find because the wall itself is very obvious. Could mention to follow flat ground to the wall and head right up a short rise.

Injected With A Poison 6C

Too easy for 6C+ (a lot easier than A to Z). Great wee climb, very aesthetic and logical. Very sharp crimps for the left but I taped up well and could crank on them fine. The top-out isn't undignified as there's good jugs up there. It would be worth documenting the same start into the juggy flakes on the right and a lurch to finish as a good easy problem / warm-up.

There was a reluctance to change the FA's grade, even though FA grades are often a bit out due to it being the FA.

Page 146 - Bryn Castell

The end of Bryn Castell intro should read: "...pass two more bends and arrive at the crag, cutting right up a trail to avoid bog just below the crag; 15 minutes."  ---that's useful for people, as if you keep on the main track in the last 100m it's a proper swamp

Heed this or take wellies.

Page 136 - Migneint / Carreg Y Foel Gron

pp167 - 1. Migneint Cowboy 7C+ deserves a better write-up given it's the big impressive line here.

Page 184 - Rhinogydd / Ysgyfarnagod

The Top Plateau

Needs the following added as it's an obvious problem and more relevant than The Gallows itself - especially given the topo with the line on it is already there, AND it's got a boulder problem listed 5m in front of the wall!!

1.a. The Pit And The Punterdom 6B

Sds in the partly filled pit beneathThe Gallows, crank up on edges and a seam to a good rail and escape off right.

(Matthew Thompson 29.7.2022)

This was not added, despite a few requests, and despite the guidebook team taking photos of me climbing it. A sample edit shows it should have been easy to fit in.

Page 295 - Arenig Village

The walls above the old station house only seem to have potential for a few easy, lichenous highballs, so with just a single traverse, this might not need including??

Up to readers to decide on this one...

Page 296 - Moel Boch Y Rhaedr Northern Slopes

The boulders are all obvious and make sense. For the problem 6. Water Vole boulder, there is only potential for one good obvious sit-start via crimps just right of centre. The circuit overall seems okay but might have limited appeal with a couple of traverses, and the up problems are right next to a fast road.

Up to readers to decide on this one...

Page 298 - Llyn Celyn

Despite the potentially very limited access, this seemed a decent area. Good rock, a compact circuit, lines were decent, and the setting is pretty novel. The approach all made sense but is maybe a bit longer than 10 mins to the further boulders.

14. Sailing To Pensylvania 6C - needs to specify whether it finishes straight up the left arete or traverses right to the right arete (much harder e.g. 7A)

Would have been useful to know

15. The Loch Celyn Monster 7A - could do with a clearer description, the "boss" is not obvious at all, unless it's a vague sloper that you'd jump to?

The natural line here is the sit start of the obvious low boss and lip traverse the arete up left to the finish??

Would have been useful to know

Page 311 - Arenig - Craig yr Hyrdodd

17a. Dame Wonder 6C+

This is the direct line starting at a lone good pocket 2m left of the right arete and climbing direct to meet the arete near the top. NWB gives it 7A, it could be 6C+, very good either way.

This was rejected, partly due to reluctance to change NWB grades - however note that the now-established grades of Inkerman and Tempest were changed. Also Dame Wonder is relatively new and unconfirmed - I did it, in summer conditions, in less goes than A-to-Z at Llyn Bowydd, done in crisp autumn conditions.

Page 308-311 - Bryn Dyfrygi

Ideally this area needs a major rewrite / pruning:

Firstly having two fullsize pictures of people on Supercollider seems superfluous (especially since it's already got a picture of the FA in NWB), it's not giving readers any extra info / inspiration.

Secondly the routes listing could be removed. I doubt there are many customers who are going to buy the guide for some esoteric hard trad routes, nor use that page, so the space could be saved.

Compare this to NWB's version of this wall, and see which has the best utility for boulderers. Again readers can see how much use they get out of the routes listing...

Page 336 - Llanuchllyn: The Emerald Forest

The rock seems really good and some of the lines look good, BUT there is a lot of moss everywhere, and I'm not sure how many people are going to climb here in the current state. There maybe needs to be an executive decision as to whether it should be thoroughly cleaned (for example, the boulders with 5. Magic Land and 6. Watch The Ripples Flow, both have really good potential if they were completely de-mossed), or whether to accept it as a possible lost cause.

Up to readers to decide on this one...

Page 337 - Llanuchllyn: Graig Felen

The lower boulders are all obvious and make sense. The rock seems a bit  sharp and flakey, it didn't inspire me that much. I'm not sure how many visitors it would get, maybe it the entry could be condensed a bit??

Up to readers to decide on this one...

Page 348 - Llanuchllyn: Area 4: Buartmeini

The driving approach description isn't quite accurate and should be more like:

"From the south follow the B road past Carndochan heading north for Trawsfynnydd. After a gate you should reach the Buartmeini farm (called Blaen Lliw Isaf on Google Maps) at 3.5 miles from the main road. Just after the farm (2nd gate) and river, park in a layby on the left with a metal gate. From the north drive 8.5 miles on the long and winding B road past 3 gates to reach the farm, and park just before it in the same layby on the right."

I carefully checked these distances on Google Maps, gate numbers correct at time of writing, and submitted this all.

Page 343-344 - Cluster 2

This should be described in reverse order, as you meet The Big Boulder first and it's by far the most obvious (and leads you to the natural fence crossing by the wall). 

This was regarded as too much faff to rejig to do which is fair enough!

19. Sam C 7A+

This really needs a highball warning as the stepped landing is pretty nasty!!

Page 347 -  Replicant Area

The Replicant boulder is a delightful spot, really pastoral and gentle. It's possible to reach it from Cluster 2 following a riverside sheep trail instead of going back to the road, about 10 mins from Cluster 2. Some ducking and weaving around trees required (clearly the sheep don't carry bouldering mats).

Useful for the best climbing in the area.

Page 362 - Cregiau Llwyn Gwern

The boulders are all obvious and make sense. The boulders actually sit on a South-East facing slope and could lose the sun early in winter. There could be a few tweaks to the map for the approach. A couple of lines are currently quite illogical variants to good lines, see corrections below. See video too.

Approach

(See updated map - marked the path, the gates which are feasible, and a stream to cross - yes this is quite detailed, but given the quality of these boulders, it might be justified!).

"Follow the old railway embankment over a gate and at 50 metres further on leave the embankment and contour diagonally up the hillside to meet a rising wall. Follow this up to another wall with a deer fence, either go through the gate here and follow rougher ground to the boulders, or go through the field on the right and then one of the other gates, either way a possibly boggy stream needs to be crossed.  The diagonal crag above the boulder field is clearly visible."

Still useful to know

Boulder 1:

1. Dance Dance Dance (direct) 6B 

This seems quite eliminate as the good sidepull is 1 foot away from the starting crimps. Maybe better described as the natural line using the sidepull??

(5. L'appel du Vide / 6. Bang Bang, Bang Bang) 

Both problems make sense but by far the best line is taking the full prow direct:

5.a. L'appel du Bang 6C+

Sds and layaway up the edge, then stretch out into the prow and swarm up the crack.

(This was a great fun power problem, with varied and technical moves, solid two stars, could be 3 if it wasn't for the block behind)

Definitely worth mentioning the best actual line here (see topo), especially since the climbing is very good too.

Boulder 2: 

Problems are often highball with bad landings, guide should mention several pads and a spotter.

Still useful to know

There is a brushed problem on the wall opposite 8. CG, with a desperate SDS pull off the deck and then fun looking climbing.

8. Carrie's Groove 6A 

HIGHBALL and currently very dirty with run-off, would be great if cleaned though.

(9. The Groove Move 7A+)

This seems a quite arbitrary extension to a great line which is the variation 6C as described:

9.a. Groove Move Direct 6C 

Start on a slanting jug and make elegant twisting moves up the groove above to boldly finish rightwards. SDS 6C+ from lower layaways.

(This was brilliant, some really cool moves and pretty committing, again a solid two stars and could be 3 if the landing was better - I got pretty spooked doing it, even after patioing it the best I could)

Again this is a case of the FA recording an odd variant instead of the actual line, and the actual line should be described as default, with the additional indirect addition also mentioned.

13. Thrill Of The Chase 7A 

Seemed really good but too hard for normal height people to be 6C+ -   after several goes I was too extended to even pull off the ground.

It was acknowledged that the FA was very tall, as well an 8A climber, but this wasn't changed.

Page 382 - Dinas Mawddwy - Bwlch Oer Drws

The boulders are all obvious and make sense. A warning about lichen would be useful. The approach is easy and the hillside is easy to navigate, if occasionally boggy. "5-15 mins" approach gives a better impression as it's quite quick to the first block and surprisingly far to the furthest one. For the furthest one it would be worth mentioning "300m around the hillside, over a slight rise and opposite a dry-stone wall that meets the main road" to reassure people they're going the right way.

Still useful to know

1. - 3. - all make sense, quite clearly graded by a strong 7C+ climber. Maybe worth checking or mentioning that they are short and very fierce. 3. Top Gun looked the best but seemed a bit spoilt by a razor crimp and the landing dropping off, also it mentions top-out but this is the one of the trio that you can't top-out at all as it's 45 degree moss.

Well this should be obvious when people get there at least.

6. Motorway Madness 7A+

This made sense as an eliminate, and should be described as such. It might be worth cleaning and doing the left arete as that's an obvious line.

7. FYF 6C

Good line and good climbing, a bit too hard for 6B+The top-out is on "decent" holds, not jugs, and is best tackled around on the right, topping out direct is worth mentioning as a harder and much bolder alternative (land in the stream if you fall off!).

It was noted the FA was both tall and prone to undergrading, so this would have been useful.

11. - 15. mostly made sense. The rock is indeed great!

14. Slap Happy 6B+

Best started with RH on the arete and LH on an obvious diagonal edge, I couldn't find a low LH crimp. 6B+ rather than 6C this way and pretty fun, good use of the sloping lip. 

There was reluctance to change the FA's grade even though he's an 8A climber so could easily make mistakes in the mid 6s.

Page 409 - Brithdir

The boulders are all obvious and make sense. Everything was dry apart from a tiny bit of seepage on Cry Freedom. The setting is delightful and the area good for a family day / quick boulder combination. It's worth mentioning the parking is on the B4416, and could get full at weekends.

Still useful to know

(3. Cry Freedom / 4. Final Settlement)

These seemed cool, the rock is great. The grades seem right, but it's not really two problems, rather it's two (good) sequences for the same line. Best described as 

3. Final Freedom 7A

SDS under the rib with low RH crack layaway and high LH layaway, get established on good footholds, then either span up and right to a distant juggy crack, or gain crimps on the left of the rib, to reach the top and mantle.

Still is just one problem really.

Page 481 - Sunbeach

A nice spot although the pebble level variance is frustrating!!

15. Dance Groove 7A+ - climbs the ARETE, there is NO "super steep and thin wall" here!!

This is even clearly visible in the topo.

16. Groove Along 4 - more like 4 than 6A

Now 6A+. Maybe a pebble level issue. 

19.a. Pinch 3 - 6A - new problem between 19 and 20, using a very obvious sidepull and a pinch up left, nice to stand up.

This was a natural line due to the starting hold.

26. Taransis 6B - no idea where the "one good hold" is, but there is a low small sidepull to pull on with??

Still no idea.

43. Tournament of Shadows 6B 

Not 6A+, has a very clear start off two crimps and is 6B from there, rocking slapping up to good holds on the right at the top. Staying on the left would be much hard 6C or so. A good line and a good climb.

Apparently this was due to pebble levels, but there is a sensible defined start.

47. Sea Slug Direct 6A

The line is clear due to the foothold, definitely not 6B, but pleasant enough.

I still think this is right, maybe pebbles again tho?

---

Next time: Full collection of videos, showing some cool stuff, and sometimes supporting these suggestions.

Pen Llyn Submitted Photos

I think I submitted all of these to the guide?? Clearly some of them are a bit bland (but then are so are some of the used photos), but others I think do a decent job of showing off some areas / routes (including in comparison to used shots). Anyway they might provide some inspiration.

Coprolalia, Carreg Lefain

This is a bland shot with bad lighting (salvageable?) but there's not many shots of Carreg Lefain which is a pretty important inland crag due to sunny aspect, easy access, decent grade spread, good climbing, etc.

The Incredible Surplus Head, Trwyn Maen Melyn

Queer Bar, Trwyn Maen Melyn

Aside from a great photo of The Bardsey Ripple and a very small one of TISH, there's only one other photo of Trywn Maen Melyn, which seems odd given it's an important crag for access and great climbing, and has some strong lines like Queer Bar. 

This is the only other photo and while it's important to have Streaky in, a lineless Severe that is of no interest to a typical E2-ish visitor to the crag doesn't seem ideal.

Cantre'r Gwaelod, Cilan Head

Yes this is a plain arse shot (albeit with nice light), but there aren't many photos of Cilan overall (apart from multiple shots of the already well-known Vulture), and certainly not showing off the more accessible and welcoming routes.

Votes For Dogs, Craig Dorys

Yes this is a plain arse shot....but then it's very similar to the arse shot that was actually used - but with a slightly better orientation and much clearer clothes / ropes....

Scissors, Charlie's Point

Okay, I think thse are pretty cool shots, but then the double page shot of Pat on this route is even better, *shrug*

Tanya's Tenacity, Wylfa West

Boring shots but could have been useful??

Strangers On The Shore, Wylfa

I think these show the line, situation and rock architecture pretty clearly....

...unlike this??

Baywatch, T'yn Tywyn Quarries

Pretty good colour contrast in these...

Singing In The Rain, T'yn Tywyn Quarries

Again there's a semi-limited selection for this bay which includes 2 photos of Microcosm, but none on these more accessible but still very good routes just right.

Pen Llyn Corrections

Pen Llyn Corrections / Suggestions:

I sent a lot of feedback / corrections / suggestions to the guide authors, based on climbing at a similar standard to the routes in question (and not several grades higher), being both familiar with and enthusiastic for Llyn climbing but also not a dedicated master of the terrain, whilst also heeding the views of my partners. A bit of the feedback seemed to get in but a fair amount was ignored leading to various inaccuracies in the guide (particularly for accessible mid-grade routes, whilst Lovatt/Bullock E7 6as on Craig Dorys get full and extensive details, which is of use to at least 2% of climbers). I get the vague impression that like some other CC guides, the guidebook process is fairly "closed shop" where it's only a group of devoted locals who are heeded (same with inaccuracies in the West Penwith guides).  Thus I've re-written the most pertinent feedback here for reference.

pp 99-101 - Carreg Lefain

Possible intro text: "Carreg Lefain is a prominent steep knoll when viewed from the East, but is best approached from the West, where the Mynydd Nefyn carpark at SH320407 has space for several cars, and a 5 minute stroll leads to the crag. The rock is a compact granodiorite with many angular features and sometimes sparse protection. The right side of the crag is quite steep, especially around a mid-height nose, and the routes are harder than they look. Some harder classics take the nose direct, whilst some easier routes skirt around it via various ramps and grooves. All routes taper off into scrambling to finish.

The crag faces due South, gets all the sun and breeze, dries quickly and has a comfy base for lounging around. The panoramic view over the Llyn is exceptional."

Routes:

10. Atasia E1 5c

"A convoluted line with an exposed finish. Climb a short corner that's more awkward than it looks, then trend left up slabby ground to gain the next short corner. Climb this, also awkward, to get established on the main ramp. Follow this back right for a long way until a committing step right gains the top of the nose. Wander upwards to finish."

Given E2 5c **, but definitely not that. Rafe led it and it was fine at E1. Very disjointed so not worth 2 stars. 

11. Good Housekeeping E3 5c *

"Disjointed by ledges but with some fine steep climbing in between. Start just left of the central alcove and climb the first wall to a ledge. Climb the steeper wall above past a crucial small spike to gain the ramp of Atasia. Step right for a couple of metres, the cliimb steeply up the next wall with careful protection to gain the ramp of (Severe). Step left for a couple of metres and climb into a scoop above to gain a grassy ramp and easier route."

Topo line is wrong and shows it swerving much further left, when it actually climbs an obvious direct featured wall.

15. Coprolalia E2 5c

"A good line up the ramp right of the nose, but a rather pokey route. Climb fairly direct to gain a block and niche below the start of the ramp. Blind and bold moves gain the ramp proper, then follow this much more easily until near the nose. Pull into a scoop, and trend left or right to gain easier ground."

Given two stars but really it's only worth one, too imbalanced.

17. Psychopath HVS 5a **

"The easiest route skirting the nose is one of the best, with continuously interesting climbing up a strong feature. Start at the far right of the wall, bridge up the small gully for a few metres, then commit left onto the wall proper to gain a flake system. Follow this until it's possible to move right into the prominent slanting groove. Climb up until stopped by a smoother slab, step left under this and then up and back right (or direct at 5b), to gain a stance and easier ground. Scrambling remains."

Given only one star but really it's worth two, for reasons given.

Submitted topo

Guide topo with Good Housekeeping corrected

pp 117-119 - Trwyn Maen Melyn

The following details along with the topo here were submitted: https://fiendophobia.blogspot.com/2019/07/trwyn-maen-melyn.html  . 

The issue with ignored stars is particularly bewildering given the amount of sport routes at the Gyrn Ddu Quarries that get 2/3 stars and are hardly the finest Llyn experiences.

Approach: "From the main track that contours above the St Mary's Well zawn, continue West to a prominent brown rock, the crag lies just below and left of this."

3. Headstrong E2 5b (?)

"Start from the giant block (the white speckles are quartz not bird shit), and follow a line leftwards out to the edge of the wall. An easier lower line might be possible."

Given 2 stars but is clearly the least interesting line on the whole crag.

4. The Incredible Surplus Head E3 5c **

"Start from the giant block, climb steeply up to bisect TBR, continue even more steeply up via two blocks left of the larger "head" and finish leftwards with much pump."

Not given any stars, despite the face it's clearly a wild and spectacular line, described as "an excellent pitch", and was regarded good enough to be one of two routes featured in Ground Up's North Wales Rock

5. The Ideal Hom Experience E2 5b **

"A irresistable line. Ideally start at the base of the corner behind the blocks, or at high tide from the block itself. Climb the steep corner via the featured rightwall to bisect TBR, continue via an undercling to escape rightwards into a bay, the far corner being the obvious exit."

6. Isis In Orbit E3/4 5c **

"Another good, very direct and steep line. Bridge up between the boulder and the right wall of TIHE, then continue up the wall on various fangs and boulders to regain TIHE at it's crack and undercling. Climb direct into a well-positioned niche and pull out directly through the steepness to finish."

Still given E4 6a despite the fact it really isn't. Scarcely harder than ISH, definitely no 6a moves. Comments on the FB group support this.

7. The Bardsey Ripple E2 5b ***

"Brilliant and bizarre, traversing the intrusion to take in the best of the crag. Start in the cleft of QB, bridge up then drop down and swing boldly leftwards to gain a groove. Follow this then escape around the left rib to gain the intrusion, and follow this all the way to the left end of the crag with much exposure, elation, rope-drag etc."

See below.

8. Stoned Immaculate E2 5b 

"Superceded by TIHE and TBR, but enjoyable. Start as for TBR to the groove, the continue direct past a committing bulge to gain the bay of TIHE. A direct finish from this might be good, or escape rightwards"

Given a star, which is probably right.

(The "bouldery start" described in the book would be much harder and more serious (E4 6a and paddable?).)

Both still mistakenly described as "Make a bouldery start left of Queer Bar" which is clearly nonsense to anyone who has looked at this start.

9. Queer Bar E3 5c **

"A great line up the chimney, with entertaining climbing to match - giant cam and dry conditions needed. Pull on as for TBR and squirm upwards then outwards towards daylight and easier terrain. Continue to a wild final bulge and pull over via the biggest hold at the crag. "

Given no stars despite the fact it is an excellent line. The guide uses my intro line and then ignores the description and star rating. These sort of sea cliff clefts are usually highly regarded so why is this one any different?? 

10. The Ungradeable Donkey E3 5c/6a *

"A shorter route, but varied and interesting. Start a few metres up the ramp from QB, at an RP slot and high hold. Crank past the bulge onto the slab of rock that's escaped from Holyhead Mountain. Continue to the break then climb up the interesting crunchy groove to pop out rightwards. "

Given E4 6a and no stars which isn't right. At least the start was corrected.

11. The Eyes Have It E4 6a (*?)

"Climb the obvious diagonal break from right to left, with a very steep finish."

Given no stars which given the quality of the line, I doubt is right.

12. The Bardsey Shuffle E7 6b (**?)

"Wild and aesthetic. Start as for TEHI until the TUD groove, then break out left onto the very steep wall via the giant embedded eyes to finish up the crest."

pp 199 - Cilan Mur Y Fulfran

Approach: "Follow the new approach to Cilan via the top of Dorys. At the main bend in the coast path (post), continue straight on instead of turning right, and pass a prominent rock after 50m. Continue in the same line out towards the coast, and as the very South West tip of Cilan head is reached, bear very slightly right (a faint gully with dark rock on the right is a landmark). The abseil point to Mur Y Fulfran is where the rocky orange shelf at the cliff-top fades out into the hillside at it's Northern end, the tidal shelf is just below this, and it's a good viewpoint for Zawn Two. Good anchors here and the abseil goes down the line of the Grampus slab."

Cantre'r Gwaelod E2 5c * 

Agree with the grade, maybe worth a star for good rock and neat, dually cruxy climbing. Slightly bold but the tricky bits are okay.

Not given a star, which doesn't seem right given things are generally being highly starred on this wall.

Grampus E2 5b

It would be useful for the guide to clarify if this started up the slabby side of the arete (i.e. a couple of m left of the arete), or directly up the steep side closer to Bilidowcar. 

Clarified as the left side I think, but could be more clarified.

Bilidowcar HVS 5a ** 

Agree with the grade, although high in the grade overall including the bold moves right at 2/3 height. Worth two stars, good line and good, interesting, climbing.

Given the stars which is good.

Hop On The Sleigh E2 5c *

Agree with the grade, definitely worth a star, good value with 3 hard and awkward moves into, up, and out of the groove (felt quite like Lake District climbing!)

Given 2 stars which I think is probably right.

It's worth noting that a small block ledge and good anchor above the barnacles on HOTS can easily be gained by abseil and provides good access to HOTS, Mesora E3 5c, and maybe Donkey Derby E2 5c when the swell is prohibitive.

This wasn't added and there's space on the page to do so.

pp 214-249 - Craig Dorys

Votes For Dogs E1/2 5b *

Hard for E1 - E1 5a up to main corner (some delicate moves, the usual Doris rock scenario) into E1 5b up the final corner (stiff steep moves with the slab to clatter into). Definitely worth a star of two for the great line and interesting climbing.

Thankfully this DID get in at E2 5b *

Friendless E1 5c *

Currently 5c for the boulder problem start. Rafe had tried it previously with the pebbles lower and it was 6a then. E1 5b after the start. Great line, definitely worth a star.

Not given a star, despite the fact it's probably a much better line than some of the E7s nearby. I'd trust Rafe's judgement on this and he was easily contactable.

Carf Crack / Faltering Hand.

There is only one line and one route here, with a possible variation finish, so the original should be mentioned first and the later addition mentioned in the text as the variant. I think Rafe would definitely agree with the E1 based on his previous lead (which had his partner describing it as "dreadful" and "don't bring me here ever again" ).

Still described as two HVS routes which isn't right.

Jacuzzi Dive E2 5c *

Agree with the grade, worth a star because, although short, it's good compact rock and elegant wall climbing. 

Not given the star it deserves, and neither were the harder routes opposite which I'm sure were highly regarded on the FAs.

pp 258 - Pared Mawr:

Bendy Wendy E3 5b *

This was an experience.... A lot harder overall than any E2 I've done on the Llyn! In fact I did Communication Breakdown E3 5c at Red Walls two days before, and although that was slightly traumatic as injury has kept me well away from having good trad mileage this year, Bendy Wendy was at least as challenging a lead. I nearly backed off the start after pulling off most of the holds on the sequence I was using, the middle ledge shuffling was unnerving, and getting to the gear in the final groove was pretty serious. Albeit the final groove had great climbing and the whole thing felt worth it's star.

Still in at E2. God help the E2 leader who climbs Bardsey Ripple, Ideal Hom Experience, Rastus, Cantre'r Gwaelod, Jacuzzi Jive, Miasma, Wylo-The-Wisp, Strangers On The Shore, and then gets on this. RIP.

The Bees Knees E1 5a **

I don't think there's the possibility of anything having the normal adjectival-tech grade ratio here, and although this was a reasonable proposition, it's still serious to start with a hard move and then nasty fall potential, and plenty of classic Pared Mawr rock in the groove. I only seconded it, and had great fun on second, both the climbing and trundling several blocks and holds. I definitely think 2 stars for the crag, it's one of the best lines (admittedly there are several, aesthetically), AND at a manageable standard so it could actually get done, and it's actually pretty nice balancy climbing.

Still in at HVS which is nonsense, and no stars which is equal nonsense given the clear reasons given.

pp 274 - 283 Wylfa:

2. Scissors E3 5a ** 

Probably only 5a and the E3 5a grade gives a better estimate (HVS climbing, +1 grade boldness, +1 grade looseness, +1 grade sustained). I think worth two stars for the climbing and setting.

In at E3 5b which doesn't quite capture the quality.

12. Wylfa Corner E1 5b ***

Seconded again, I thought it was hard for the grade the first time (when I had a solid summer of multiple E4 leads under my belt) and I think it's just as hard now. Maybe more so after Rafe removed a few bits of "good rock" from the top. Still a 3 star classic though. Line, continuity, gear, tricky corner climbing, the works.

In at two stars which is fine.

13. Miasma E2 5b *

This was good despite being a bit intimidating. Obviously dangerous but easy to start, then the final traverse, well it wasn't hard but only had good gear at the start of it. I'd say more like E2 5b, the moves weren't hard but the end of the traverse was bold and falling off the spooky rock-over onto the arete would be an injuruous fall back into the corner. Great moves along the traverse though.

Given E2 5c which doesn't quite capture the feel of it.

18. South West Connection E? 5? 

The right side of the crack at the crux overlap has fallen away leaving a fresh rockscar and some highly off-putting mini-fins of rock instead of the wall, so the grade and star will likely change.

Seemingly ignored and still in at E3 5c which it was when I led it PRE-rockfall, and definitely won't be now.

4. Strangers On The Shore E2 5b **

Suggested as 2 stars due to good rock, interesting easier-than-it-looks climbing and a nice situation.

Thankfully this did get in at 2 stars. Albeit with a disappointing arse shot (photo updates in next post)

pp 298 -333 - T'yn Tywn Quarries:

Baywatch E2 5c **

Very good and well balanced - steep bold jug-hauling into a nice upper part into a tricky crux finish - definitely 5c. A good line when you look closely too. It's also more like 5m right of Microcosm. Probably worth 2 stars for the variety and overall experience.

(For context Rafe led SITR after me and found it stiff but managed it fine, but pumped out on the lower part of BW, and then on second - after I re-lead it - he found the top crux hard (in a sort of A0 way)).

In at E3 5b *, which doesn't capture that it's both fairly manageable for a steep bold route, but also fairly crux,  and 3m right of Microcosm which isn't right. 

Singing In The Rain E1/2 5b */**

Also very good with a strong finish. Serious to start with some hollow holds and a terrible landing (see UKC comments), and a stiff exposed move into the groove higher up. It's just 2m right of Baywatch.

In at E1 5b * and no mention of the start.

...

Next time: Submitted photos.