New things.

Another somewhat delayed posts about autumn/winter/spring escapades....

When you're forced to COMPLY and OBEY and stick to local exercise for local people....well it turns out you can unearth (sometimes literally) all sorts of stuff. Sometimes that stuff involves rock and sometimes ascending that rock is quite pleasurable too and might even be so for other people....

BLOCS:

Maeshafn Quarry 

Sailing The Seven Chodes 6C-ish * 

At the right end of the Main Wall is a rainproof alcove with a shrub cornice and a semi-eliminate line with good moves up the steep left wall. Start sitting on a crimp and undercling and power upwards to finish at obvious good sloping shelf. The crack itself is out. (Fiend 28.04.21)

Cracken Edge (Over The Moors BMC guide).

Tentacles V4/5-ish *

The nice highball wall in a hollow just left of the main routes section. Sit start on an good diagonal hold, climb directly via small crimps and a long move to a jug rail, escape easily right. The jug rail can get some dirt from above, easily flicked off with a brush stick from the right. Well cleaned via abseil so no idea about the grade, the star is conservative.

Edit: Confirmed as "the best V4 slab at Cracken Edge" by Mark20....

Small Prow V3-ish

100m right of the main routes bit, the obvious small prow. Sit start on an good diagonal hold and clamp up to the break, carefully avoiding the block to the right.

(Fiend ??.04.21)

ROUTES:

John Henry Quarry:

Pirate Error E3 5c *

The cleaned line right of Cragster (actually where the topo shows Cragster finishing). Start at a weakness several metres right of Cragster. Climb the lower wall to a sloping break and traverse left to gain the "staircase". From the top of this continue up the thin crack past an obtuse crux to gain blocky holds, and keep motoring up to finish. Lots of medium cams.

Cracken Edge:

Summon The Cracken E3 5c *

The obvious steep line right of Cratos, via a thin crack through the bulge. Climb directly into the hanging corner and make powerful moves out past crimps, a sloping jam, and a crucial cam. Keep cranking up the photogenic headwall to finish.

Broadbottom Quarry:

Broadside E3 5c *

The steep sidewall adjacent to Elder Wall. Climb Elderberry Crack for 5m to some gear slots. Swing right and up to gain a high handledge, then make excellent moves up the thin crack via a sharp jam and small cams to gain the break. Keep pushing past the hourglass cracks to pop out onto the ledge out right. Either lower off the sapling, continue up the slab to an excavated mantel and scramble to trees, or escape on a pre-placed ab rope. Lots of small cams.

(All: Fiend, Coel Hellier, April 2021. All abseil cleaned / inspected)