Sort of. Certain comedy performance art pieces in the climbing scene recently have got me thinking about bouldering grades and the possibility of nudging them towards the remotely accurate. I've been going up to West Yorkshire a bit partly because the journey time is hardly much longer than going to Peaks grit, but is much cruisier being motorway for most of it compared to trudging through Stockport or Glossop, and partly because it's quite good and varied and thankfully not Almscliff. Return trundles along the M66 or M62 have given me time to ponder on the grading and thus here are some thoughts / corrections:
Recent dabblings:
Brimham:
Arthur 6C+ (E3 6b, 6a) [attempted] - This is a weird one. 6B+/C start to a hands off rest, then very rounded and committing scrittle-grovel over the top which is very morpho but probably not that hard. Not nearly as good as it looks TBH.
Perky 6B+ - seems spot on.
Brimham Outliers:
Boris Or Bust 6C - Spot on. Not too hard but precarious and tenuous. Great feature!
Fiddlesticks 6B+ (6C) - As hard as BOB, did it just as good conditions, but was warmed up more and more confident with the landing, and it took me longer.
Gilstead:
Eldwick Direct 6B+ (6C) - Very hard reachy crank on a tiny crimp, I did this in perfect conditions and it was still a hell of a move. I suspect this is the same as the imaginary 6C next to it that doesn't have holds. Lovely little area of problems there.
Scout Hut:
Needle Of Dreams 6C - Easy climbing and a move that would be an easy flash at ground level, but at that height feels well goey. Absolute classic.
Dodger 6B+ - Nowhere near as hard as the photo of JP makes it look.
James Dean 6C (7A) [attempted] - Tried this repeatedly after warming up on NOD in perfect conditions with good skin (before trying it!). Might be a bit morpho but deffo two grades harder than NOD, I couldn't do a couple of moves let alone link them.
Earl Hitching Stone:
Bryony's Arete 7A - Spot on. Really cool problem. Suited me well as it's a gaston move with good feet, but I'm not going to go off on some arbitrary downgrade even though I did it quickly.
Rimbosity 6A (6B+) [attempted] - tried to do this as a warm-up in the most perfectly crisp conditions. Desperate. Gave up after a few attempts, as did someone who climbs Font 7C moves on hard-but-safe routes.
Shipley Glen:
Rudolph 6C - spot on. A bit cranky to start, a bit goey in the middle, good value.
Previously on FiendTV:
Pebble Wall 6C+ - spot on.
Not My Stile 6C+ - spot on. Think I did it when it was V6 but easier than that.
Whiskey Galore 7A (soft 7A) - a bit soft but still maybe creeps in to 7A.
Deepfry 6B - spot on.
Murky Rib 6C (6B?) - I think I did it when it was V3/4 and felt okay at the grade?
Pair In A Cubicle 7A - spot on.
Pommel 6C+ - spot on.
Fat Punter's Roof 6C+ - spot on.
A Little Sparkle 7A - spot on, and amazing.
Sulky Little Boys 7A+ (morpho, hard 7A+ / 6C) - weird one this, absolutely desperate for the short who have to jump to the rugosity gaston on the arete, completely trivial for the tall who could reach it with feet in the break before the Font 6B/+ rockover to pocket. One of the hardest single moves I've ever done.
Mansons Wall 6C - spot on.
Red Baron 7A+ - correct I think?? I did it in 6 goes using the "John Dunne knee" beta and could have flashed it if I'd got my left hand higher on the first attempt. Does this mean it's suddenly 6C? I think not. Just the luck of the day and suiting me at that time.
Finally to compensate for this necessary but tedious dross / science, have some oldish photos:
