Yeah this is a bit overdue. Blanket lockdowns irrespective of transmission risk, recovering from previous injury, winter weather, what-fucking-ever. It's spring now, the Lime Caller set a new benchmark of farcically bad lime calls with a call just before blizzards hit the Peak and then it went back to crisp grit connies. The punishment being that May started with a monsoon oh well. So here's a catch up on stuff I fitted in here and there. Esoteric gems ahoy!!
Grit Oddities 2 - Yorkshire
A right smorgasbord of all sorts! Roadside highballing, moorland pebble-pulling, woodland crimping, urban roofs... And some real personal challenges.
Photo Finish 7A (7A+?)
Something that inspired me a couple of years ago and turned into a proper seige... It got right into my brain and the middle couple of sessions had me leaving thinking "fuck this" (trying to move my left hand whilst holding the high gaston had me wanting to headbutt the crag and chew the pads in frustration), only to return again despite myself... And well, yeah, it is ace overall.
For Locals Only 7A+ (7A(!)?)
Local exercise and all... Actually this should be on *everyone's* wishlist (especially after I thoroughly cleaned it on ab on a previous visit). Brilliant fingery pop to a jug, then a life-affirming highball finish - that had me shaking with adrenaline for many minutes! A 10 second walk-in means it's easy to lug pads in, and then there's the project wall just right...
Pochette Surprise 6C (6C+/7A?)
This had been on my radar for a while, and I finally braved the alpine approach fucked legs and my stack of pads, and of course it was totally worth it - it has an all out pebble move for God's sake! I had to summon a lot of faith and my face at the end says it all.
Pocket Pull Pond 6C
Terrible name for a really cool problem. Although the pond over the top was solid ice which was quite fun. A rather scenic spot but prone to returning to nature at quiet a sprint, hence any highballing plans were abandoned in favour of this cool face climb which took all my determination to stay adhered to the middle crimps!
Stone Love 6A/6B (6A+?)
An unknownchoss.com special! Is it downgrading Will Hunt or upgrading dunnyg?? Who cares, it's actually a pretty neat little problem despite the coarse and "newish" rock. Definitely worth a detour from the honeypots for.
Galling Groove 6C+ (6B+/C?)
A mini-gem which just about transcends it's fairly grotty adjacent rock with a neat line, neat height, and neat moves. Go there on a nice day.
Busta Groove V5 (V6 w/o kneepad?)
A pro-tip from Jordan that this can dry quick despite it's woodland location, but this one is Nao's problem. Just plain good fun. I couldn't the knee to work enough to reach the top direct so hard to rely on a toe-hook - rare for me and quite satisfying.
Grit Oddities 2 - Peak
Aretes? Aretes!
Geisterspiel 7A
One of Mark20's nu-skool classics at Rivelin Quarries - and on the same day someone was working his nu-skool classic E7 at the far left too! I've had some fun days with M20 - he wears ron hills, has a pet dego, and likes a bit of black metal. I was totally psyched to do this problem as it is legitimately brilliant, as good as any grit arete despite the lack of top-out. Great compression moves and a cheeky toe-scum for me to finish.
James' Arete 6C (6B+?)
Another new addition, not sure of the actual name! With all of the base-of-crag bouldering gems scattered along it, I was speculating that Rivelin Quarry now has a better circuit than Bas Cuvier. Except less pof, quieter vibes, less hordes of bellends, etc....
Sambucus 6C (6C+?)
King lines come to Woolley Edge! An undeniable classic of esclating difficulty and a committing move to a clean top-out.
Lessons In Depth 7B (7A)
Grade change due to using different beta from Mike Adam's first ascent on every single move! Then again if you're a 6 foot 8C climber you might not be looking for 7A vs 7B beta, even if you could tell the difference... Despite it's proximity to the mud slope, this is another great problem with flowing and involved movement.
Gazelle 7A+ (6C/+?)
The problem I initially went to do and left me standing around wondering "oh, what next?". Another good line despite the grading nonsense, slightly easier and not quite as fine as Sambucus, but makes a good triptych!
Pepper Mill V5
A rare visit to conventional pastures, although according to G, this gets relatively little attention, despite, of course, it being brilliant. It was bloody freezing in the wind, and having to wear wellies for the "Scotland+++" bog level walk-in, my feet went numb and didn't thaw out for 45 mins with the car heater on full.
Kappix 7A
A salvaged day, and indeed salvaged problem, when the Peak was snowbound and the frosting on the trees at Harthill was quite beautiful. We went to try Scrapheap Challenge - I built as best a tyre platform as I could and was trying the strict starting method. I lunged for the lip hold, spun off leftwards and missed the pads, so we moved them. A few more goes, I half caught the lip hold, long enough to swing rightwards and miss the pads on that side.... We moved onto Kappix which had a really cool move to stood up and I had to finish rightwards as I couldn't do the reach leftwards. Later video browsing showed people doing Scrapheap without that eliminate start and with about 30 tyres padding the landing instead of 6....
Baildon Bonanza
I've always liked Baildon for routes. Now I like it for bouldering too.
Who Are We... 7A+
The kingest of lines! Terrible name (bollox to dad rock), beautiful problem. It hadn't been on my radar as it's at the very upper fringes of my ability, but then I started playing around... And yes, it really is that good, especially with this more natural start and static finish (I loved my impromptu press off the groove to get my weight up). Celebrity spotting by DJ Perc and Jarvis Cocker!
The Baildon Stem 6C+
Done as a consolation prize after being unable to get near the rat crimp start of Quaint Groove, but fun in it's own right. Not sure about this foot in the chip malarkey, but this way seemed natural to me.
The Mantel 7A (6C+?)
This was the catalyst for my Baildon bouldering. I'd always assumed it would be too hard and too thuggy for the short and heavy, actually it's just plain great fun. Once I worked out I could do it, it made my day.
Suggy's Wall 7A
It took quite a few visits to get on this when it's not too hot (i.e. above 0'C for this problem!!) or seeping. A lovely bit of wall with some very small crimps on the crux and an E1 5b finish that has never seen E4 6b in it's life!!
The Oik SS 6C+ (6C?)
Strong line, soft grade - I'd have flashed it if I'd cleaned the slightly scrittly finger ramp properly. A nice problem from the sitter or the stand, also my ex-girlfriend had cats she'd nicknamed "greedy wee oiks", so I'm fond of the name.
Peak Slabs In The Woods Triptych
A fun concept to explore: Cool slabs hidden on boulders in the woods below main crags!
Sunset Crack 7A (6C/+?)
Terrible name, brilliant problem. Great location, great rock, gentle landing, a distinctive chickenhead feature to go for, continuous moves, and lots of little features to work out a sequence on. One of the best in the Peaks!
Yorkshire Farmer 6C+ (6C?)
This might have been put up by one of UKC's prime headpunting chodes, but it's still a great find. Crimpy! I also did the more direct version where you don't swerve onto the ramp at the last minute, also good and not much harder.
Dreamboat Direct 6C/7A (6C+?)
Not really a slab at all where it matters - more like a vertical wall on which you have to hold on really hard on some minging rounded, frictional holds. Hence struggling like balls on my first session and having to come back and cruise up it in much fresher conditions. Still a cool bit of rock in a nice location (but scarcely 100m below the main crag) and the spooky stand-up out of the starting pocket is slabby enough....
Clattering Stones Circuit:
Somewhere that I'd always wanted to visit, both due to the cool-sounding circuit but also a relatively easy drive from home. But it's the furthest West-most grit in Yorkshire on a North-facing slope and the amount of times I've driven up out of Nelson into swirling mizzle and CLART and had to continue on to Scout Hut or Baildon or wherever... Finally got there in a fine dry period with a forecast of fog lifting to sunshine, well it didn't but the rock was bone dry and it was a great day.
Linea Negra 6C+
The first bit of rock that appealed to me, with a lovely selection of subtle features in an equally subtle scoop. Unfortunately it turns out that the obvious method is to crank past most of it, thus getting it done pretty quickly. If you're at this boulder for a while, trying to work out every possible method on this problem would be fun.
Fontanelles 6C+
A very attractive wall with climbing to match. A bit tricker for the short as I couldn't do the "reach off good left sidepull to high right edge" method, and had to combine a cheeky toe hook with a terrible smear for the right hand for alternate beta.
Androsterone 7A
The highlight of the day! Not only a technical delight with full usage of the toe-catch and thoughtful hand sequences, but a real fight trusting the distant left foot and reaching the top. I felt satisfied and my fingers felt worked after this.
Morning Sickness static 6C (6C+?)
I tried the dyno. Fuck dynos. I'm short, heavy, and despite strongish legs, very slow and not springy. The static sequence, despite the guidebook nonsense, is at least as good - varied, technical, and precarious. Distinctly harder than LN and F for me, but if you were a few inches taller and could use either the first lip sloper properly, or the main lip sloper, it would be a lot easier.
Love Handles 6B+
This took a fair bit of scrittle brushing off the top. Cool line though, with switching laybacks.
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That's it for now. Maybe more of the same catching up soon-ish!
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