777

As a change from grotty Peak lime, I was out for some grotty Clwyd lime (what it lacks in vegetation, it makes up for with in looseness) with mr Andy F the other day, and it was a 777 kind of day. After a warm-up, with both did What's Going On F7a */**/*** which was delightful steep slab climbing that suited my trad bumbling, Atmospheres F7a *** which was an antithesical battle through hanging overlaps (Andy at the belay: "I've been brutalised!") and good training for trad bumbling with both the style and a leg-pumping essential rest, and finally Prickly Heat F7a+ ** (conclusion: 3 hard 7a sections back to back with one shakeout adds up to more than 7a!) which Andy put the draws in and I somehow flashed via an absolute battle that has little to do with my trad bumbling except that if I could put that much determination in on trad I might actually get somewhere.

Anyway What's Going On was both the easiest and most enjoyable, just a lovely style of climbing, engaging but not stressful, exposed but not scary, and apparently "better than almost all 7as in the Peak". Which it might well be. But then again there are a lot of good / well-reputed 7as in the Peak, so what could be more suitable / boring / anally retentive than list most of them....

Done:

Exo6, Masson Lees? - was 7a when I did it. Remember it being heavily glued.

Hilti Sound System, Masson Lees - also heavily glued etc. Dunno if Masson counts as proper outdoor climbing?

Tucker's Grave, Intake Quarry?  - again 7a when I did it and can't remember fuck all.

This Is Not A Drill, Darlton Quarry - much better than a lone star, intense crux and nice finish.

Aperta, Hidden Quarry - ditto, nice wall with a balancy first crux and a cool go-for-it finish

Scratch Race, Plum Buttress - also underrated, cool boulder problem and very photogenic

Cairn, Harpur Hill - obvious, but it is that good

Lies And Deception, Smalldale - only one star but makes the list for quality.

Want to do:

Straight Jacket, Wildcat - no idea but worth an explore

Handy Wallhole, Dale Quarry - need to do this with slab ninja Coel

Supercrack, Lorry Park Quarry - keep putting it off but will get there one day

Too Monsterosity, Slaley Brook - went once but got distracted by Marble Wall

Fuck Your Gods, Masson Lees - when I've got over my masson tantrums

I Hate You, Stoney - great name, I've had good experiences of Stoney sport.

Demolition Man, Horseshoe - one for a nice winter's day?

An Ancient Rhythm, Horseshoe - ditto

Lead Vein Thrombosis Deep Rake - gotta do this just for the name

Red Mist, Goddard's Wall - no idea if it's good but 1 star 7as around these parts usually are!

Rubicon, Water-cum-jolly - put it off for 15 years....maybe I will be strong enough soon?

Max Head Room, Max Buttress - max routes are pokey

Up The River, The Cornice - almost dry enough the other day

Clarion Call, The Cornice - still putting this off, or getting distracted

White Gold, Chee Tor - one for a fresh bone dry day as a warm-up for the trad?

Go Cat, Dog's Dinner Buttress - just for the name!

Case Adjourned, Two Tier - obvious

Darl, Two Tier - lovely spot

Quality Control, Two Tier - this too

Monkey Magic, Cowdale - probably nails but worth a shot

The Prophecy, Harpur Hill - will get around to it at some point

First Offence, Smalldale - ditto    

Can Boys, Smalldale - ditto

Attempted:

Long Black Veil, Masson Lees - blew the final move inches from success. massive tourettestantrum

Une Crime Passionel, The Cornice - now 7a due to hold loss in upper groove. was close. nails but cool start.

Armistice Day, The Cornice - 7a+ in reality so not bothered, especially since I don't fit the kneebar.

The conclusion being.... I really don't have enough experience to make any judgements about it. Not that should stop me normally, but maybe since I'm kinda getting used to inland lime, I should try to tackle some of these this year. Perhaps 7 of them...