Saturday, 23 February 2013

Gathering problems at Garheugh Point.

Big Growly Thing V5 * , Garheugh Point
The hanging "bear's arse" at the left end of the prominent Barrel Roof in the roadside bay just N of the wee stream. Start sitting from a L sloper and R sidepull crimp, and gain the arete via a variety of shenanigans. Pull onto the slab finish and a short drop off. Slightly flakey rock around but fun climbing, decent landing, and a sheltered spot.

fiend big1

Tried this last spring I think, it took a while to work out a sequence, including pulling off a hanging fang where the roof undercling now is, and it was too warm for the upper sloper. Went back the other month and it was seeping. Went back recently and it was all good. There are many possible sequences, and it took me another hour of working before I remembered the kneebar. Overall it is a funky problem with the ground usefully rising up beneath you, so you get a decent amount of climbing for it's low height.

The funny thing about Scotland is there are so many decent-good new lines to do, some of them aren't even that epic, that distant, or require that much excavating, just putting a bit of effort in. But I tend to prefer new problems that will actually get climbed (definitely not guaranteed in Scottish bouldering), either a whole new circuit, or something truly classic, or useful additions to a current circuit. I've got a couple of other such lines up my sleeve but then again it's starting to get towards routes season soon and my 7aMax guide needs some testing...

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