2/3 of the way through the main trad season and my route list is looking as follows:
Lewis: - not got to yet!
Tweetie Pie Slalom E5 6a ***
Limpet Crack E3 5c ***
Neptune E2 5c ***
Blessed Are The Weak E5 6a ***
The Prozac Link E4 5c ***
Supercharger E3 5c ** - unrefined but a good adventure
Wish You Were Here E2 5b *** - quite stiff and rather good
Have A Nice Day E3 6a ** - saw detatched holds from WYWH, decided no.
Golden Shower E4 5c ***
American Vampire E4 6a *** - exhilerating and exhausting jamming
Fight Club E3 6a ***
Whispering Crack E3 5c *** - fantastic mega-pitch, loved it.
Northern Exposure E2 5b *** - no time and put off by rock.
Digitalis E3 5c *** - brilliant, perfect crux.
Mother's Pride E4 5c *** - brilliant, quite steady, amazing second pitch.
Various routes. - did several, good value good mileage.
Occam's Razor E4 6a *** - great, quite steady, good position.
A Paddler's Tale E3/4 5c *** - great, sustained cruxes, not sure how I made it in greasy conditions.
Headstrong E4 5c ** - steady but rather cool, good moves.
Wyatt Earp E3 6a ***
Crack Of Desire E3 6a ***
Various routes - did Headlong E4 5c ***, excellent wall climb.
Ardmair: - added to list because it's awesome
Neart Nan Gaidheal E5 6a ***
Twisting Twitcher E3 6a **
Burning Desire E5 6b ***
Each Uisge Direct E4 6a ***
Murray's Arete E3/4 5c *
The Shimmer E4 6a **
Flag Iris E4 5c **
Demon Razor E3 5c *
Flashing Blade E3 6a **
How The West Was Won E3 5c ** - cool, was a bit unsure about parts but a rewarding pitch.
Stand And Deliver E4 6a **
Edgewood Whimper E4 5c **
Porpoise Pun E3 5c ** - good bold wall climbing.
Wall Of Flame E4 6a ***
Instant Muscle E4 6a **
Rough Justice E2 5c * - more like ***, great pitch.
Aquarian Rebels E4 6a ***
Quality Street E3 6a ***
On Some Beach E5 6a ***
Freddie Across The Mersey E5 6a **
Crackattack E3 5c *** - pretty cool, worked out the easy way.
Mutant E4 5c **
Triode E5 6a **
Risque Grapefruit E4 5c **
Fingertip Finale E4 5c * - backed off as too scared of horizontal swing onto skyhooks.
Precious Cargo E5 6a *
Colder Than A Hooker's Heart E5 5c **
Harder Than Your Husband E5 6a **
The Final Solution E5 6a **
Acapulco E4 5c ***
Bratach Uaine E4 6a ***
Case Dismissed E3 6a ***
Ayatollah E4 6a ***
The Prow E5 6a **
The Essential E3 5c ***
Senakot Rose E4 6a **
Old Fashioned Waltz E3 5c *
Red Army Blues E4 6a **
Downies' Syndrome E4 6a **
Sair Fecht E3 6a **
The Pugilist E4 6a ***
Various other routes
Peel's Wall E4 6a ***
Smith's Arete E5 6a ***
No Place For A Wendy E2 5b ***
Pole-Axed E4 6a ** - horrible rock and approach.
Gabrielle E4 6a *- horrible rock and approach.
Diamond Cutter E3 6a ***
Edge Of Insanity E4 5c **
Short Sharp Shock E4 6a **
1. I've done a great job of getting to Skye and a decent job of getting to the North West. Finally getting to grips with Skye sea-cliffs is a big tick off my list.
2. I've eventually managed to work up to doing some more challenging climbs and hopefully this can continue to the rest of the season.
3. I've still not managed to get to Lewis and will make that a priority next time weather and partners coincide.
4. I've generally ignored the closer / Easterly / more weather-sure options in favour of heading North West, but there are still plenty of things that inspire me in those areas so I will need to get more focused on those venues too.
5. There's still plenty of routes to do including the North West, but many of them are at cool-weather-friendly crags so hopefully will be in condition later into Autumn.
6. There's probably some more training I can keep doing to top up my climbing to tackle some harder routes, so far I can think of:
- Falling practise
- Steep route practise in general (always useful in Scotland)
- Lock offs and reaches (based on experience)
- Toe / calf training (based on experience)
- More falling practise...
Unfortunately I've still got punterflu which is driving me mad as I'm still syked and want to train and climb and not just rest up like a fat gelatinous lump of mucus!! It should be over soon...