Tuesday, 14 February 2012

Fluffing Flashes.

Flashing....yeah the police have given me a formal caution and I'm not allowed within 100 yds of any Glasgow school.

I like flashing boulder problems. I like working them and unlocking them and solving their intricacies and going from not being able to do a single move to doing the entire problem. But I also like flashing problems. I like how the focus shifts from working the problem to working it out in advance. All the tactics and tricks and planning and plotting. And the actual attempt, the challenge of quick thinking, adaptability, execution, and above all, determination. Fighting when the moves are not exectuted optimally, fighting to stay on because there's just no point in letting go. Not a masochistic battle, but a pleasurable one.

So. Carrock. I had an inkling I could flash Sing A Rainbow. Why? Steep prow, a couple of crimps, amazing conditions. That suits me well. Not too fiddly, sequences that can be assessed from the ground. And I didn't do it. Nor did I flash anything else that day. But they were all close and I want to learn from that....

I Can, I Can't - could have flashed, but didn't because: Just slid off the cut-loose move as I got my toe back on. 2nd and 3rd successful go I used exactly the same method just hung on! A little bit more fight and better preparation brushing the hold and I think this would have been fine.

Sing A Rainbow - could have flashed, but didn't because: Wrongly judged that I had to get my right hand higher at the start, but once in that position I couldn't move to get the left-hand crimp. In fact reaching off the low right-hand pinch is very easy and I should have had a quick look at that option before moving my right hand. I ended up working the problem, because the off-balance slap higher up is quite unnerving with a weird swing/fall potential, BUT on a flash attempt I think I'd have had the sheer battle to go for it.

Undercut Arete - could have flashed, but didn't because: I choose the wrong starting method. Both the "feet miles away on the back wall" and "footless hang into heelhook" methods seemed quite unlikely with my bloated body, but I flipped a coin and tried feet on first. Feet promptly off and arse back on ground. I then tried the hang method and really surprised myself by crunching up into the heelhook. If I'd tried that first go it would have gone.

Purple Slab - could have flashed, but didn't because: Tried the wrong method first go, second go my lower foot slipped. This is a bit more on/off and outside my control, but I could have ignore the right-hand method and then put my foot on with more care. I think I was a bit casual at this late stage in the day.

So what I've learnt from that:
1. Prepare better including brushing and chalking.
2. Fight a bit harder!
3. When anticipating sequences, give myself some options to consider and execute if needed.
4. Choose my sequence carefully.
5. Keep trying, because I'm pretty damn close to some good flashes.

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