Saturday, 20 February 2010

Crushing at Cambusbarron.

Just managed to do the hardest boulder problem I've ever done, Monkey Spanking:

11 hours
6 days
7 worn down fingertips
3 bleeding flappers
1 strained hamstring
1 brass brush destroyed
1 bag of super chalk
4 camera batteries

...and I did it.

I started working it in the deep freeze in January, as it stayed completely dry - definitely a good use of Scottish winter conditions ;). I thought it was a new problem as I'd asked about it online and no-one knew anything about it, despite it being an brilliant and blatant line. After 4 days effort I found out (through the obtuse and impenetrable Scottish bouldering scene) that it had been done already - the pressure was off but I'd put in too much effort to give up. After a few longer rest periods I did it today.

Quite a strange experience, at first it took a while to even get off the ground, so making incremental progress was interesting, but at times I dreaded getting back on it due to how hard it felt. I still didn't fully understand the body positions involved, the holds are quite clear - there aren't any - but how I was positioned in space to use them was still a bit of a mystery.

To celebrate I also did the right side of the arete, the original Spanking The Monkey which is a better problem and great fun and I had a smile on my face when I slid down from near the top a few times:

P.S. I must confess the real reason I managed to do Monkey Spanking today was an inspirational spotter in the form of a passing Julian Lines' dog, who was so determined to remain a spotter rather than traipse around the quarry scouting out new lines that Jules had to pick him up and carry him away:


lyons said...

awesome looking line, good clean send. Looking strong man!

La Mac said...

Victory at last, bravo!

Unai said...

nice one!!!!

Fiend said...


No comments on the cute wee dog tho...

La Mac said...

Shows how impressed we all are with your climbing that the dog didn't get a look in. ;)

Or it could just be that he's not very cute. :(