Sunday, 19 October 2008
Training again.
So the other week I went down The Edge climbing wall. Two sessions, each session I led a few F6cs, the second session those were all on the steeper wall. My elbow was naturally a bit tender to touch afterwards, but felt less tender, particularly the next morning, than when I'd been leading F6b+s a month ago. As is current, it was quickly alleviated by massage and hot/cold treatment.
This is promising, progress is still slow, but it has felt like progress for a good month or so now. Now it finally feels like I am able to train i.e. regain some fitness, strength, and physical confidence. Training is good in the following ways:
1. Improves the physical side of my climbing and allows me to feel more confident about being physically challenged en route.
2. Is a good general workout and usage of my body.
3. Gets me climbing and hanging out with my closer friends and having a good time with them.
4. Is fun full stop!
The training I'm starting doing is simple, flexible, and above all about continuing at a very steadily increasing level (subject to elbow allowance). It's not about pushing myself to my limits (or, in fact, beyond!!) as I did in my pre-injury training. It's more about using my body, improving the physical side, and slowly easing back into it. E.g.:
1. Bouldering/pottering on grit for technique and confidence.
2. Sport or trad climbing in limestone quarries as good stamina and rock-reading training - useful for the Lleyn Mission.
3. Steady leading sessions indoors, climbing at a level which gets me pumped a bit, and doubling up routes if needed.
4. Indoor circuits, focusing on easier problems, flashing, and mileage - mostly an all-round workout.
...as well as a bit of running of course, which I should keep doing and do some more of, even. As morally reprehensible as it is, I can't deny it has a good effect - I may still be WEAK but I'm not quite as FAT.
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