Thursday 26 September 2019

Mix And Match.


Sorry for the lack of updates. I've got a couple of vaguely philosophical things to write but also blogger's block about actually putting sweaty fingertips to keyboard. In the meantime I have actually got to Wales a bit more satisfyingly regularly than previously during summer, and even finally managed to climb at South Stack after a month and half of trying to rally any troops to join me - and of course had wonderful route experiences that have fully confirmed why it's so important to visit this area once the bird bans are off. Truly the best "roadside" (not cafeside as it's currently being rebuilt) adventures in the UK. I've only done Rapture Of The Deep and Natalie so far, both highly entertaining and excellent Type 1 fun, and both in warm mid-September weather that gives me hope that any settled spells in mid-October will provide even better conditions to prolong the pleasure.

In contrast, I've mixed and matched those jaunts with an essential "double celestial phenomenon" Llanberis Pass tick of Quasar and Pulsar, both the polar opposite of the South Stack sheningans, and both great in their own more predictable and more powerful ways. It's been really nice to dip into such variety of the single / two pitch trad climbing spectrum. On the other hand my stamina is still completely fucked from a winter / spring without training and compounded with too much redpointing which is fine for 3 minutes of rehearsed power-endurance and absolutely rubbish for actually hanging on to anything for more than 5 seconds, so I'm not really doing anything properly challenging, but I'm doing the right sort of stuff at least.

The side-dish to this surf and turf smorgasbord (a big fat rolly polly seal at Gogarth, a mocking stalking sheep in the hills) has been a flavourful serving of blocs, courtesy of an exceptionally extensive menu in the North Wales Bouldering "put one's deadlifting training to use" book. I've tagged a bit of exploring onto trad trips and had a disproportionate amount of fun out there - there really is classic quality on the Welsh boulders, as long as you stay away from the Cromlech and Cave, of course. I hope the current tiresome sunshine and showers bullshit will abate enough to continue that too. In the meantime, some random images....







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