Saturday, 8 November 2014

Whinging trad fanny...


It's now past the year anniversary of the successful resolution of The Great Ratho Retrobolting Farce, in which the fine result of removing most of the retro-bolts and highlighting the quality trad and clearing up the quarry vied for prominence with highlighting the idiocy of some of the myopic sport climbing fanatics. An amusing contrast came from people who claim to like both trad and sport - as if that's justification for retrobolting!? - but doing the bare minimum of trad climbing presumably only when Dunkeld and Dumby are a bit too warm, whilst at the same time equally deluded members of the pro-retro-bolting faction were dismissing pro-balance / pro-consultation climbers as, and I quote, "whinging trad fannies". I'm trying to recall anyone I know on the side of the common sense as being a pure trad climber doing just the bare minimum of sport, and I'm struggling. Big Bob who was just off to Sardinia, warming up for his F8a plans at Costa Blanca in Easter?? Jamie Sparkes who bolted Balgone Heughs and the quarry opposite Ratho (aptly showing the potential without retro-bolting)?? Hmmmm...

As for myself. Well, here's the Scottish sport (and mixed) crags THIS particularly "whinging trad fanny" has climbed at:

The Camel
Brin Rock
Moy Rock
Creag Bheag
Creag An Amalaidh
Creag Nan Cadhag
Creag Nan Luch
Goat Crag
Glutton Crag
Glen Ogle Sunnyside

Glen Ogle Darkside
Ardvorlich
Dunira
Comrie Crag
Strathyre
Bennybeg
Rockdust
Dunkeld
Cambus O May
Red Wall Quarry

Boltsheugh
The Keel
Legaston Quarry
Ley Quarry
Balmashanner
Rob's Reed
Kirrie Hill
Elephant Rock
Arbroath
North Berwick Law

Ratho Quarry
Dunglas
Dumbarton
Balgone Heughs
Dumbuck

So, about that line of argument that our side didn't understand Scottish sport climbing and the need for it's development again................???

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