Craig Galch

A little Rhinnogs outlier update for you...

Craig Galch 
(pp 359 of Meirionydd guide)
A crag with a lot going for it on paper: open, sunny, quick drying, with a nice crag base, impressive rock architecture and a exceptional view over the estuary right down to Harlech Castle. But... There's not many climbs, the rock is a variable flakey quartzite sort that might preclude further development, and the approach is potentially arduous. Expect a combination of Rhinnogs atmosphere and mini-Gogarth/Lleyn climbing.
Approach:
Cross the bridge from Penrhyn, turn left on the A496 and park carefully at the second entrance on the right with a rusty iron gate. Follow this rough track through the woods as it steeply zig-zags up the the lone cottage (friendly residents if in-situ). The crag is obvious due North, the approach less so. Go through the two cottage gates, turn left, and follow a grassy "peninsula" into the boggy-looking plain, aiming towards the crag. At the ferny left end of the peninsula, cut across the bog towards a cluster of small trees to pick up a faint path through the opposite ferns. Follow this over a low wall then onto a heathery ridge towards the crag. Go over a notch in a wall and cross a small boggy valley, then follow the hillside on the left, below an obvious buttress (unclimbed crack and arete, flakey rock) and contour around to the main crag.
0.8 miles, 25 mins, 150m alt gain, good track then some tussocks and ferns, potential bog.

Left Buttress
Bat Capers E3 5c 15m
Now defunct due to hanging death fang at final roof.
Bat Attack E3 5c 15m
Now defunct due to obvious rock fall at final roof.

Main Crag
Large and full of all sorts of weird angles.
Descent: Scramble to the top and descend easy gullies / slopes to the right (facing in).

First The Worst E4 5c 25m
Line is not obvious. It appears to be a thin flake in the sidewall of the corner left of FRZ??
Frank Zappa RIP E3 5c *** 25m
The giant central alcove provides an excellent route with some creative contortions.
1. 5c 17m Ascend easy rubble to the alcove, then bridge up the corner past a bulge to some respite at the roof. Perform a counter-intuitive insertion into the hanging slot out left and pop out to a fine belay to witness the second's shenanigans.
2. 5b 8m Tiptoe rightwards along the hanging slab to an exposed au cheval position and better gear on the arete, then crank straight up to finish. Spike belay well back.
(Down to E3 5c as it is indeed shockingly easy)
Kneebar of Eternal Justic E5/6 6a ** 25m
Line makes sense according to description, joining SE briefly at the ledge and good flake before a direct finish.
Subservient Elephant E1 5b ** 25m
A fine sea-cliff adventure weaving up the sidewall to gain the same exciting FZR finish. Good positions and excellent rope-drag potential. Start just right of FZR and climb the bulging groove above an inconvenient hawthorn to gain a break/ledge at 7m leading left. Follow this to a good flake and swing up and left to the FZR shelf (possible belay). Take a deep breath and teeter out right to finish up the arete, as for FZR.
(Down to two stars as although the positions and finish are fine, the rock is a bit crude and climbing disjointed)
Fearsome Worrier E1 5b ** 25m
Line is not obvious. It appears to go direct from SE's left to the roof, move right and maybe tackle the incredibly obvious but unmentioned groove above??

 Subservient Elephant

Subservient Elephant (also the finish of FRZ)